X-TREME SPORTS - When The Waves Knock Your Socks Off! 😜 [Video Evidence Inside]

in adrenalin β€’Β  6 years agoΒ  (edited)

A minor setback is an exquisite set up for a major comeback, remember that. - Dau Voire

If you'd ask me how many times I've been falling off my board so far, I wouldn't be able to tell you.

As always in life, the decisive point is that you stand up once more than you fall down.

Not sure what exactly happened during today's session, but I got wiped out in a quite fancy way a couple of times.

Here's to the beauty of little knock offs!

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@surfermarly reporting from the beach

Safeguards.

I must have a guardian angel who takes care of me in the water.

To date I haven't been suffering any major injuries from surfing, which is pretty impressive considering the huge amount of time I spend in the water.

Let me knock on wood for an instant.

Today came along as one of these innocent late summer days.

However, after only a few waves I noticed the impressively strong groundswell, heavily pulling me inside the Ocean.

I had to think about a journalist who died two days ago at the very same spot. He tried to help a friend out of the water: she made it, but he didn't.

These are the moments you rememeber that you can't ever win a battle against Mother Ocean.

It's important to be humble and regardful - in the end that attitude will be able to save your life.

Here are 2 minutes of literal EXTREME SPORTS:

PS: I do all stunts by myself πŸ˜ƒ

Thanks for your time, see you on the block!

Much love,
Marly -

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This blog was created in July 2016, aiming to provide thought-provoking content for open-minded people who go on adventure, step out of comfort zones and embrace the new.
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Great surfing there! That’s funny where you say you do your own stunts.

Well that's the truth, hehe :-) Depending on how you jump sometimes they really look like stunts.

Β  Β· Β 6 years agoΒ 

I love that last smile just before you fall off the board... :D

For years, I've been telling my surfing students not to worry, that every surfer falls... Every. One. Falls!

Learning to be a surfer is simply a matter of, little by little, extending the time between when you stand up, and when you fall. ;)

Surf on, my friend!

πŸ˜„πŸ˜‡πŸ˜„

@creatr

I couldn't have said it any better :-)

It's also important to learn how to fall, especially if one surfs over rocks or reefs. Falling the way I did in the video is one of the great benefits of surfing a beach break. If you're far away enough from the shore, there is nothing that can prevent you from doing funny jumps into the water :-)

Surf on, my friend and happy Monday!

Β  Β· Β 6 years agoΒ 

"It's also important to learn how to fall..."

Absolutely! Also something I emphasized to anyone I teach! :)

If in any doubt at all, fall face forward, hands extended down, onto the deepest crest of the wave behind you... ;)

In deep water, just have fun! ;)

I hope your day and week go great as well! :D

Β  Β· Β 6 years agoΒ 

Fantastic! Wipe outs are the best, it wouldn't be any fun if there weren't any.
Surf on!

Posted using Partiko Android

Fully agreed @dboontje!!
Hope you're having a great start into the new week :-)

Β  Β· Β 6 years agoΒ 

I’m scared of the ocean... if it passes my waist level, I’m running back to the shore πŸ˜‚

Posted using Partiko iOS

That's not always the badest idea. Only three days ago a man died at my spot, while trying to rescue a friend - she made it, he didn't. Lots of spots in the world are simply not made for swimming. For a reason we should be respectful, and you do well staying close to the shore though :-)

Mother nature has its own plans for us mere mortals. Glad you are safe!

Hehe, she absolutely does! Thank you, @steemitqa - am happy you stopped by :-))

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Β  Β· Β 6 years agoΒ 

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