A Spicy Welcome

Driving to site in the all-terrain Land Cruiser was a bumpy two hours during which we drove through two streams and over one by way of a wood-plank bridge. It was quite engaging; tactically racing over potholes with fans of broad leaves arching over the track. Each time we passed through a village I asked “is this it!?” like an impatient kid driving to grandma's – “Are we there yet?” The rainforest vegetation cleared into a savanna with sweeping grasses surrounding massive, isolated cotton trees some 20 meters tall. This landscape did not reach far, and soon Plum (n. - Liberian word for Mango), Palm, and Orange trees took a stand. This was site.

View west towards South America from a massive rock outcrop on the coast of my new home.

Jerry the driver veered off the dusty road and dove between two houses, masterfully avoiding both by what felt like inches. Children had already taken to chasing the car, and when we parked on the sandy front yard of my house a crowd radiated. “White man here!” noted several children while others looked on silently. Older members of my new community came, shaking my hand and lobbing first, middle, and last names to me. Most had Nyema somewhere in them; I remembered that. Many hands made light work and before I could meet the final Nyema all my supplies and belongings were inside my house. The mayoress showed me to a nearby area where the village elders were seated. We each exchanged pleasantries and my counterpart Cotee gave me a seat.

He briefed me on the order of the ceremony which then followed as such:

Item 1: The Kola Nut

Any one who enters the village of the Grebo tribe must be offered the bitter nut as indication of welcome. The golf-ball sized nut is split into many thin wedges and the stranger dips the nut in peppay dust and bites down. After the Clan Chief took his piece, it was my turn. Bitter indeed – but I kept a straight face. I knew this was the first of many. The water (n. - cane sugar liquor [when used in the context of Kola]) followed behind.

Item 2: Statement of Mission

I stood up and shared what brought me here and the mission I had. A blind man called Dibleh translated my words into the Grebo dialect. After each sentence I heard applause and thank you's. Perhaps it was the overwhelming kindness and smiles, but this impromptu speech was so splendid. No nerves muddled my thoughts or words – I said precisely what I meant and no less. It was then I felt most content; this is exactly where I am meant to be.

Item 3: Acceptance of Mission

Community members resounded that my stay was welcomed, and my mission a valuable one.

Item 4: Offering of the Dwelling

Floating on the high of the moment, I was brought back to my house for a formal offering. The community used its funds to construct the house and everyone was eager to see the final product. The house suited me well.

Item 5: Remarks on the Dwelling

I was asked to comment on how I received the abode, and whether or not I accepted the offering. Its color matched my shirt – a convenient talking point. Accepted I did.

Item 6: Comments from community members

Any welcomes that were not offered earlier were done so.

Item 7: Closing Prayer

In Liberian English and the tribal Grebo dialect, god was thanked for all things good. My town had several American missionary women help develop and promote Christianity in the area, and references to God are as plentiful as the coconuts here.

Item 17: Meal time

Item 17 always refers to the meal – the crux of any well-attended meeting. From a nearby house children carried out the staple Palm Butter soup (palm nuts reduced into a creamy orange soup with hot pepper dust and bouillon inside) atop rice with bony fish.

This warm and at times spicy reception was more than I anticipated and sauced me up to make town rounds. Cotee escorted me as I was Kola nutted from place to place, becoming familiar with the village sprawl as well as the bitterspicy tradition.

P.S. More posts coming soon. There's much to share with all of you and it is only scarce data that is blocking me!