Good to see a fellow market anarchist on here.
I encountered something similar in South America. When I would go out to eat, I would regularly eat at the road-side barbecues. They sound like the most dangerous places to eat, but I never got sick by eating there. I noticed that there were people who would frequent these places and provide an incentive to make safe food by their patronage.
No inspectors, no food handlers permits; just me and the owner. I used my head (you know, that thing that tells you if something is dangerous or not) and could usually tell by the customer base if I was going to get sick or not.
I ate at those stands for about $1 to $1.50 for a big meal. Now tell me where you can find that in the States?