High Fashion

Haute Couture criteria

• Tailor-made for the wearer or a haute couture collection used to introduce new design lines in new fabrics and colors with an emphasis on fit and body-fitting
• Unique, beautiful, exclusive design, attention to detail, artistry and originality
• Almost 80% is done by hand so it takes a long time. Turning time for old fashions is 100-150 hours for suits and up to 1000 hours for evening dresses
• Clothing is relatively expensive, couture items cost around £10,000 - £40,000 or more for a simple blouse. Chanel couture in 2002 was pegged at £20,000. In mid-2004, the evening gown was priced at £50,000.
• Using carefully selected materials and materials, high quality at a great price
• The Houte Couture fashion pattern is the result of working together with a team, for example one design is divided into 4 main parts namely, upper body, lower body, sleeves and collar.
• Application of details, finishing, done carefully and thoroughly by skilled and experienced tailors. The design line of Haute Couture clothing is studied in depth and the patterns are prepared in detail and all work is carried out by trained personnel in their respective fields. For example, in the form of installation of crystals, feathers, or works of art from a painter who works closely with the designer.
• Done by separate experts if there are parts that need to be embroidered either with silk, gold or silver thread or parts that are attached with beads or sequins. Each section is managed by a system of specialization (specificity).
• Usually the manufacture of haute couture clothing is led by a well-known fashion designer. For example: Piter Sie, Cristian Dior, Pierre Carolin, Hanae Mori (France), Hary Darsono, Ramli, Ghea, etc.
• Consumers usually come from upper class such as royal queens, celebrities and artists.
• The mode cycle is between three months to one year

Making process

1. Before a customer orders Haute Couture clothing, it is necessary to make an appointment with the couture house.
2. Customers will be served by a vendeuse, a salesperson who is responsible for client orders. Vendeuse earns a commission for every clothing sale from a client. The problem that often arises is usually that there are clients from other cities who want clothes with the same design and color that have been ordered by previous clients.
3. After selecting the desired model, Get creative concepts and ideas. Vendeuse conducts discussions between warehouse staff, embroiderers, furriers and clients.
4. Customers are measured
5. The designer makes a sample design using muslin or calico. The sample models are called Toiles. First fitting using Toile. The toile is manipulated, marked and adapted to the design.
6. Do the fitting with the toile, the fitting is done several times depending on how complicated the model is
7. After the toile is nearly perfect, then cut the actual material with selected and exclusive materials.
8. Work closely with a team of trained and experienced tailors to complete haute couture garments. Cutting and finishing is done in one room and the manager is responsible for everything that is produced in that room. Vendeuse also conducts inspection until a garment is fit for couture release.

Characteristics of Couture

• Model : Bustie, Ballgown, Muslimah Clothing, Layers that apply fabric manipulation, drapping, pattern magic, cutting, laser cut
• Fabrics : Good quality, latest fabrics and expensive silks, fine wool, cashmere, cotton, linen, leather, suede, other types of leather or velvet, satin fabrics, duchsse satine fabrics, skin silks, charmense fabrics, taffeta , damask fabric, lame fabric, shantung silk fabric, dupion silk fabric, metalasse silk fabric, woo fabric, brocade fabric, velvet fabric, organdy, chiffon fabric, organza fabric, georgette fabric, tulle fabric
• Color: The color of the cloth used is more free and adjusted to the occasion or color trend
• Ornament : Varies in the form of beads, lace, buttons, embroidery, applications and other decorative techniques such as various embroidery decorations, paintings and air brushes

Sewing Finish Technique
The finishing technique for making this dress uses high-quality sewing techniques, namely boutique sewing techniques.
a. Finishing of Lint / Remaining Stitches
a. With a costume seam for thin and soft material.
b. With back seam for sheer and translucent material (chiffon).
c. The open sea was robbed (by bus/band).

b. Furing installation
a. Thick material (stiff / fall) with open / loose vuring. Bad part meets bad.
b. Materials that limp and fall (not too thick/not too thin) loose vuring and bad meets bad.
c. The thin material is not transparent, the vuring is off but the bottom of the hem is closed or together
d. Translucent material

Interlining layer
a. Thick material (stiff / fall) with open / loose vuring. Bad part meets bad.
b. Materials that limp and fall (not too thick/not too thin) loose vuring and bad meets bad.
c. The thin material is not transparent, the vuring is off but the bottom of the hem is closed or together
d. Translucent material (thin/thick/perforated) double vuring, first it sticks to the visible of the material, then it is covered with vuring again, bad meets bad, for example: brocade, chiffon, and others.
e. The furing installation on the split must overlap the staple material by cutting a square at the end of the split.
c. Connection Completion:
a. Each joint must be ironed until smooth so that it falls neatly and before finishing the drain.
b. With the bottom seam given a bus or ribbon, first sew it well to meet both folds and the som for the bisban only shows half. For widened and curved bottoms, the bus can be used for seams (without additional stitches) so the seams are only as wide as the bus.
d. Installation Details
The installation of beads, decorative threads, embroidery or decorations on clothing must be covered with cotton cloth first, so that it does not shrink. Installation of Draperies: Installation of draperies always uses double material.
F. Types of Stich Used in Haute Couture

1. Running Stitch
   This is a straight-line sewing method that is useful for joining two or more layers of fabric together. Stitches are usually collected in one pull of the thread. We will produce a stitch with an empty space between the two stitches, and the result will appear the same on the front and back. The length of the thread depends on the need but max 60 cm (if it is too long it will tangle easily), while the width of the stitch space is 3-6 mm.
2. Wrinkle Stick (Gathering Stitch)
   This type of stitch is useful for pulling a long piece of cloth so that it fits when it is adjusted to another, shorter piece of cloth. It is also commonly used to crimp fabrics. The width of the sewing segment is approximately 13 mm. Pick up 3-4 stitches at a time in one stroke, then leave a long thread at the end of the stitches, to pull the fabric through. Evenly adjust the creases and wrinkles that occur along the plane. If the fabric to be crimped is long, then divide the seam into 2-3 parts to prevent thread breakage.
3. Back Stitch
   This seam is formed in reverse. The needle is pulled out of the fabric along one suture seam, then penetrates again into the fabric at the point where the thread emerges from the previous suture suture. Because it is much more durable and safer than running stitch, it is the best choice for finishing hand-sewn garments. This stitch will look like a machine stitch; that is, there is no empty space between the suture segments either on the front or the back.
   Step :

1. Secure the thread at the edge of one area of the fabric, then stick the needle through the back, simultaneously pushing it forward again, in front of the first stitch, about 3 mm. Pull the thread.
2. Insert the needle behind the previous thread exit point, about 3 mm, then push it forward again, advancing 3 mm. If done correctly, the stitches will indeed press a little against each other at the point of the previous sewing segment.