Gojal: :Where Pakistan begins

There is neither a military check post, nor any signs of civilian settlement here. This is the Pak-China border, and I am standing at the Khunjerab Pass, with my face towards Pakistan’s brother, China.

The Pakistani section of the Karakoram highway, which is likewise dubbed because the eight wonder of the arena, ends here. From here, this dual carriageway goes thru the bluish waters of the Karakul Lake, settlements of nomads, and thru the regions harbouring wild mountainous camels with two humps, and finally ends at Kashgar.

From right here, a avenue results in Yarkand, and another ends in the Taklamakan wasteland, that's the sector’s 2nd largest wasteland, with transferring sand dunes.

The border is covered with barbed wires. As I stand, a flock of sheep seems in sight, moving aimlessly, after which entering the chinese language territory for grazing. The sheep stop by using the grass, protected with tiny snowballs, sniff it, and flow beforehand immediately as though expressing dislike. there is no herdsman with the flock, that's traditional inside the northern regions. The birds and animals haven't any borders, but I must go back from this factor.

My next vacation spot is Attabad Lake in Hunza.

many of the blackish and forsaken mountains of Karakoram, there's this lake, which got here into being merely by using hazard, it's miles one in all Pakistan’s largest clean water reservoirs. This 22-kilometer long and 220-ft deep lake is filled with the blue waters of River Hunza, when a landslide in 2010 blocked its go with the flow, growing a landslide dam. sturdy winds in this slender mountain pass create ripples within the blue-green water of the lake.

With the advent of this lake, extra than 18 kilometers of the Karakoram toll road has been submerged, misplaced somewhere in the depths, suspending transportation by using road. Now, the simplest choice is to pass the lake, reach the Hussaini Village, and get at the Karakoram dual carriageway once more.

The lake is terrifying. not best did it drown several villages and those, however it has additionally affected alternate with China. Now, the lake has its own ‘traffic’, boats, big and small, which delivery humans, cars, and goods from here to there. The sailors are happy with the money oozing out of their wallet. The disaster has demonstrated to be a tragedy for some, and a blessing for others.

Hunza River, Gojal.

Attabad Lake Crossing.

Gulmit Village and Passu Cones.

Gulmit Village.

Gulmit Village and Passu Cones.

This whole region is referred to as higher Hunza or Gojal. The Gojal Valley borders China and Afghanistan, with its border meeting the chinese border at Khunjerab — 15,397 feet above sea degree — and remains blanketed with snow all year lengthy.

in the north west, there is Chiporsun, whose border touches the Wakhan place of Afghanistan. Wakhan is ready six square miles in location, after which begins Tajikistan. The Karakoram dual carriageway which connects Pakistan to China also passes thru Gojal Valley and enters China at Khunjerab.

Karakoram Highway in Gojal.

earlier than 1974, Gojal turned into a part of the Hunza kingdom, and become ruled by using the Mir of Hunza.

Gojal loved splendid significance as a result of its strategic and agricultural cost. The Gulmit Vvillage of Gojal turned into the summer season capital of Hunza, wherein the Mir of Hunza used to keep his courtroom and deliberations had been made on quite a number issues. local music and dance programs could additionally be organised right here, and Polo would be played inside the sizable rectangular ground in front of the palace.

Mir Muhammad Ghazan Khan, the Mir of Hunza announced an association with Pakistan, however it loved autonomy as a separate kingdom until 1974. In Z. A Bhutto’s tenure, the political reforms introduced the so-known as fall of Hunza’s princely country. since then, Gojal is recognized as a Tehsil in the subdivision Hunza of Gilgit-Baltistan. domestically, it is also known as higher Hunza, however in professional documents, it is known as Gojal.

Gojal, Upper Hunza.

Passu Cones.

As I go out the Hussaini Village, I see children crowding the road. Golden hair, blue eyes, and faces so crimson they could outshine apricots! driving along the river, I reach Gulmit, Gojal’s maximum populated village.

it is autumn, and it feels as though the complete village is asleep within the cool afternoon. The blowing wind frees the leaves from trees, and that is the handiest sound i'm able to listen.

The Passu Cones have been in sight constantly. The fields have been harvested, and the farmers are resting of their houses. I bypass via some elderly women, sporting traditional caps, accompanied by naughty little kids. In return to my salutations, I get hold of endless prayers. while my jeep moved forward, I could see the youngsters waving in my rear view replicate.

A child at Hussaini.

just one kilometer ahead, the Borith Lake appears. there may be an old motel at the financial institution of the lake, the flavor of its meals still clean in my memory. The financial institution had tall grass; within the backdrop, there stand snow-included mountains, and their reflection could cast a staggering white in the murky water. 4 waterhens lazily go with the flow on surface.

The lake is coloured black, and that i experience joyous on the sight of these swamp chickens. but as Mustansar Hussain Tarar says, “What do 4 waterhens have to do with happiness?”. Happiness comes from someplace internal. at some point inside the past, the lake turned into home to waterlife and migrating birds, however now the level is lowering and the lake is progressively drying up.

the group of waterhens flies and vanishes someplace a long way away in the mountains. Happiness has not anything to do with them, however I feel my very own fled with them. An aged guy got here out of the resort, welcomed me, and stated: “Terrorism has badly affected tourism. now not many human beings visit such remote lands now. once in a blue moon there’s a random vacationer, who will become the supply of my bread. You need to click a few quality pictures and display them to the world in order that tourism another time gains momentum. Come, i'm able to feed you a few outstanding food.” His sweet bribe made me teary as I smiled at him in reaction.

A Danish girl tactics me and we begin talking — she is a doctorate scholar who's doing a thesis on climate modifications inside the Karakoram Mountain Rrange. She told me that she liked the lake so much, that she have been staying right here at the Borith Lake for the beyond 3 months.

Then she requested me if I had ever seen the lake on a full moon night. I responded negatively. She insisted, “you received’t that photograph everywhere else.”

My motive force and i consume, at the same time as she talks. whilst i am finally about to go away, she says, “Your u . s . a . is stunning, do visit the Batura Glacier if you happen to visit the Passu Village, i've seen swans accumulating on the white snow of the glacier.”

The Glacial Lake of Batura Glacier Passu.

Borath Lake.

My motive force is astounded with the aid of her revelation and tells me. “Sahib, I’ve been residing in this place due to the fact all the time. i have by no means visible swans on glacier.”

I stated, “She should be a passionate nature lover, and such fanatics can see even pigeons on glaciers, I too have seen fireflies on the River Chenab”. My driver smiles at my reaction, and we arrive at Passu.

Darkness is enveloping the valley as our jeep enters the Passu Village. I check-in at a motel and relaxation for a while. Then, I go out in the darkish to countless stars shining inside the sky like jewels. outside, humans have embellished their homes and worship places.

men, ladies, youngsters, elders, all stroll towards the Jamat Khana for the start anniversary in their religious leader. The night time turned into bloodless but the human beings were out inside the streets in excessive spirits. The sky changed into adorned with stars, and the homes with lamps.

I see the total moon, intricately positioned at the tip of a mountain. i am unexpectedly reminded of the Danish female, and her description of the full moon at the Borith Lake.

in the morning, I witness the equal joy and fervour as final night time. It turned into similar to Eid ul Fitr. Faces packed with happiness, toys in palms, prayers on lips. This autumnal morning of Passu seemed even more lovely.

My digicam is in my bag. i have continually felt that one should usually avoid taking photos in the course of nearby gala's, mainly whilst they are of religious nature. you're a stranger amongst them, why supply them an excuse to object?

A Chinese girl On the Khunjerab Pass.

A face from Passu.

Autumn at Khunjerab.

Autumn and the Karakoram Peaks.

I had to go away this lovely area, even though I honestly did not need to. when you are touring toward Sost from Passu, a jeep road turns to Shimshal. that is a widespread place and its borders contact both China and Baltistan.

Pamir is likewise inside the Shimshal Valley. because of its tough terrain, it changed into disconnected from relaxation of the arena until a jeep street turned into constructed here. The locals have given many sacrifices for the development of this avenue.

Shimshal is well-known for producing the united states of america's best mountaineers, which include Samina Baig, who is the first Pakistani lady to have climbed Mount Everest. Shimshal’s Rajab Shah and Meherban Shah have scaled Pakistan’s highest summit. experienced mountaineers in Pakistan broadly speaking hail from Shimshal.

Hussaini Village.

Sost, the closing metropolis of Pakistan, is full of motor workshops. there may be no different agreement at the Karakoram highway when you go away Sost for China. After Sost, there's the Khunjerab pass at 15,397 feet above sea level, in which China and Pakistan’s border is located. apart from Pakistan Customs office, there’s a dry port in Sost, where goods to and from China are saved.

A huge quantity of investors and labourers from exceptional regions of Pakistan dwell right here, which has given rise to monetary activities extra than different places inside the area. After Sost, a jeep avenue turns to the Chiporsun Valley. It’s northwestern component is attached to Afghanistan’s Wakhan vicinity thru the Irshad bypass.

ahead of Sost is Khunjerab, which is the closing Pakistani territory. The call without a doubt is combination of phrases Khun (blood), and Yeraf (glacial movement), and actually translates to 'circulation of Blood'.

it is said that an ancient psychic had once prophesied that a warfare might be fought here, and that the bloodshed could be so incredible that the horse riders’ feet would be dripping with blood. accordingly, the location is called so. This area is domestic to several uncommon species, which include snow leopards, bears, and the golden eagle.

In the jungle between Passu and Sost.

The water stream near Sost.