When I look at the pictures from my trip to Myanmar in 2015, I remember a beautiful country, friendly people, lots of temples, but also a country that has been characterized by years of authoritarian military rule. For years I had wanted to go, but had to put it on hold until it opened more up to the outside world. Now in retrospect, I see that it was a wise choice.
Mandalay is one of the major cities in the country. It was also the last capital from 1861 to 1885 before the annexation by the British. For a couple of centuries, Mandalay Hill has been an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists. Legend tells that Gautama Buddha prophesied the city's founding as a religious center when he visited Mandalay Hill. The city did become a place of religious teachings and today it's the cultural capital of the country with enough pagodas, monasteries and stupas to keep you busy for many days.
Mandalay Hill seen from the bridge to the Royal Palace
Mandalay is situated on a flat plain, except for a 240 m. natural hill in the city centre – Mandalay Hill. It's visible from almost any part of the city. To get a good view of the city from the
Sutaungpyei Temple at the top, I had to climb 1729 stairs. I could have chosen an easier option. There is also a road and an escalator to the summit for those who are unable to walk.
Due to the heat, we were most active in the early mornings and the afternoons. That day started early. Before breakfast we walked to the moat surounding the former Royal Palace to enjoy the sunrise. Mandalay Palace and Fort is lying within these 26 feet high walls surrounded by a moat. A wonderful start of the day.
Our hotel was located in the south-western corner of the palace area. Mandalay Hill is located in the northeast. The stretch along the side of the moat is about 2.5 kilometers, which meant 5 to 6 kilometer from the hotel to Mandalay Hill. I borrowed a bike from the hotel. Because it was hot, I made some stops along the way. I took a couple of photos with the mobile of myself and the bike, but I look way too sweaty so you only get to see this picture of the bike advertising my hotel.
Pilgrims and devotees, along with visitors who want to visit the Sutaungpyei Temple at the top, must walk barefoot the 1729 steps to the top. It takes 40-45 minutes, but the stairs are covered to give protection from the sun. There are also small buildings, niched, buddhas and souvenir stalls along the way. Including food and refreshments, that made me make some stops along the way.
Some of my stops on the way to the top was the U Khanti's Hall. Until after WWII some relics in the form of bones from Buddha, were kept here. They were moved to another location. There are several statues too. Buddha pointing his arm towards the city when he prophesied the foundation of the city. Or the ogress offering her severed breasts to Buddha. This action seems repulsive to me, but according to legend Buddha was impressed. In return he reincarnated her later as King of Mindon 2400 years later. Definitely interesting stops.
At the top it's easy to spend time at the beautiful Su Taung Pyei Temple and enjoy the view of the city from the terrace. To be there for sunset seemed to be a popular time. There were lots of people, though I didn't feel it was crowded.
When looking down from the top, I looked at all the places I had already visited: the Kuthodaw Pagoda with its 729 stupas which contains the world's largest book. Sandamuni Pagoda, Atumashi Kyangdawgi, the Shwenandaw Kyanung... Buddha's prophecies were fulfilled.
I chose to walk the stairs the same way back to entrance to pick up my bicycle. Before I had to turn away from the road along the moat, I made a stop in the south-eastern corner of the moat to have a last look at Mandalay Hill.
There are also many places right outside town that shouldn't be missed. One of them is the U-Bein bridge in Amarapura. Check previous post:
Myanmar - The longest wooden footbridge in the world
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