The new entry about Iraq is primarily characterized by a criminal story. You will learn how the police station in Khalifan has become the most visited place on my trip so far. You will also learn how I became a little famous and how cycling has changed as a result...
A crime story starts
I’m with the police in Soran. The officer on duty sits across from me:
“What are you doing here in Iraq?”
“How long have you been here in Iraq?”
“Where do you sleep?”
“Could you please give me the number of your boss in Germany?”
“Do you have friends in Iraq?”
I’m sitting nervously on a couch in the Soran police station, trying to answer the questions as best I can. But what happened?
In the last few weeks, I have perceived Kurdistan as a very safe country. No matter where I was, people assured me that nothing was lost here. I often left my bike unplugged outside in the cafes. Also with some valuables in the pockets. As we sit around the campfire that evening, I don’t suspect anything bad. When it gets late, the two boys pack their things together. One disappears and Rahim puts on fire again. Since it’s getting late, I decide to get my things for the night from my bike, which is about 10 meters away. I leave my mobile phone next to the fire, somewhat covered by my jacket. When I look up from the bike, Rahim has suddenly disappeared and with him my cell phone. As much as I search, I can’t find it again.
police work and investigative successes
The next morning I try to report the theft. However, at this point in time, no police station can be identified for me. They just send me on. Partly to the capital Erbil. So I decide to go to the next larger town. Through another breathtaking landscape, the road meanders past a canyon to Soran. There I get help from Omer. He goes with me to the police and translates. Instead of taking on my case, my integrity is checked first. They even want to call my old boss in Germany. After a few questions about me, the chief of police turned to my case. After a few questions, I am driven to Khalifan. There is actually a police force there.
In the Khalifan police station I meet the young officer Sarhad. And that’s where the investigation of my case begins. The lieutenant speaks excellent English. After a short briefing on the case, we head to the local shisha bar. Fortunately, I can still roughly remember the names of the two boys. And so it is not that difficult for the people who work there to track down the suspects. That’s how the evening ends for me tonight at the police station. Now it’s just a matter of waiting. Because it’s the weekend. To clear my head, I decide to explore the area by bike. However, I don’t get very far. Just as I am leaving the place, I am stopped by the police officers. They wave at me with my mobile phone. That was fast. And the suspect is now in handcuffs on site. After being told that I will get my phone back two days later after the court hearing, I try to go on a tour again.
Mister Pstiwan and the Lieutenant
I didn’t get that far this time either. After about 30 kilometers I am approached by Mister Pstiwan at a small shop. And so another crazy story begins to unfold. Pstiwan always calls me Mister Marc. By the way, every time he speaks to me or asks me something. Today he invites me to an iftar meal with his family in a small mountain village. He speaks very little English, but his wife, who is an English teacher, helps with the translation. This is how we let the evening in the mountains come to an end. By the way, after the traditional Friday prayer, he has more surprises in store…
As we sit together comfortably in the evening, the conversation suddenly falls on my stolen mobile phone. I didn’t tell them anything about it. Now it turns out that the police shared my case and the successful arrest with the media. And with that, another thing comes into play. After people found out that I was with Pstiwan, his cell phone wouldn’t stop ringing. From the police chief to the governor, personalities call and want to see how I’m feeling or speak to me. Pstiwan is noticeably proud of his famous guest.
In the news
I spend the next day with Lieutenant Sarhad, who invites me on a tour around Khalifan with his brother. The day starts early. I get up at 4 a.m. and eat my breakfast. Since I have a rest day today, I decide to try fasting. It’s always good to have a distraction. It is much easier for me to fast while we enjoy the great nature around Khalifan and Soran with their waterfalls and canyons. At a waterfall, I discover how someone left their cell phone and car keys on a table while they are out and about somewhere. So much for safety here in Kurdistan…
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Beautiful nature around Soran
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Beautiful nature around Soran
In court and in the television
After the iftar meal, which I was really looking forward to today on my fasting day, I spend the night in the local luxury hotel, which the governor gave me for free. The next morning I am personally picked up by the chief of police in Khalifan. While we are waiting for my trial, a lot of celebrities are arriving at the office. One police chief after another runs up. And the stars and medals on the uniform are increasing. My case seems to have made waves. I noticed that from the fact that pretty much all the friends I had in the country at that time wrote to me. And then comes the process. After the judge has heard both sides, I am asked about my “complaints”. Which means as much as that I can have a say in the sentence. I decide to be merciful, which isn’t easy for me, since the two of them spread a lot of lies in court.
Then the next surprise awaited me: the telecommunications company Korek got wind of my case and gave me a new iPhone.
With my new Iphone
After all the photos are taken to feed all the PR departments, I have my freedom back. And since it is relatively late, I decide to visit Pstiwan…
And again I don’t get that far today. After I’ve been on the road for half an hour, the police bring me back to the station. A TV team from the largest Kurdish TV station RUDAW is waiting for me there. I do an interview and the TV people shoot a few scenes with me on a bike and without a bike. In the evening we sit together at Pstiwan and watch the result on the evening news. And that changes my life in Kurdistan even more. The video is the most viewed on social media for a long time. I’m quickly becoming a star in Kurdistan and cycling here is getting even more difficult.
In the news Channel
At the police station in Khalifan
Selfie-Polonaise
The next morning I make my way to the capital, Erbil. However, I'm not making very good progress with it. Especially at the beginning around Khalifan I take a lot of selfies and some drivers overtake me with their mobile phone and ask for the mobile or the new iPhone. Even on a few small side streets, people recognize me and ask me about the incident. Within a week I became the most famous traveler in Kurdistan. So today I'm even happy to be able to pitch my tent in peace and have some time for myself. It's over quickly the next day. After I reach Erbil, the selfie marathon continues and I get some invitations to meet local people.