Hardcore Surf Break

in photofeed •  7 years ago 

I’m not a big fan of surfer action shots. In general my feeling is that while they are dynamic, they’re all pretty much the same. But I have this soft spot for surfers, their suits, their boards. This I find interesting. Especially on gloomy days. The juxtaposition is glorious.

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It’s not just the unexpected visual contrast. You’ve gotta have respect for people who are willing to suit up and get into the frigid waters under the pelting rain. That’s serious dedication. That is hardcore passion. It may also be a little batshit crazy. But as an artist, it’s something to which I can totally relate. I love this level of obsession. This is what drives me as well.

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When no one else is around - no one else is willing to brave the rough and murky madness - those of us who have to do what we do will persevere. These are the moment that make the most beautiful of memories.

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Not only is the water freezing, in some parts of the world, there is a real danger of losing a limb or a life to a shark. That is dedicated

Shark attacks are pretty rare here but they do happen. You can find surfers along the SoCal coast 365 days a year, regardless of weather or pollution or any other act of man or nature.

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Chilling yet warm... I know that feeling... and that bird... and that bench... Your first shot :)

The bird says hi 😄

You have a bench!!! I LOVE benches. :)

There is a feel or texture to your photos that I really really like. I enjoy the way you post edit...everything feels old and warn and warm.

The other thing I appreciate about your posts is your writing - you always stick a message in there that grabs me.

Today its

no one else is willing to brave the rough and murky madness - those of us who have to do what we do will persevere

I needed to hear this today. Thanks audacious steemit sister!

Thank you, Deb! I’m really honored that my work speaks to you. And I glad you like my editing. The bench actually belongs to the city of Santa Monica. But now I have captured it forever. Bwah hahahahaha. 😉