成分笔记-玻色因

in skincare •  6 years ago  (edited)

原文来自@真魅博客:玻色因到底对皮肤有哪些好处?— 药妆成分(5)

以下是瞎记的笔记:

玻色因来源:山毛榉树->木糖->木糖衍生物(糖蛋白混合物)->玻色因

原理简述:
玻色因与木糖有类似的作用,即促进GAGs(葡糖氨基葡聚糖/粘多糖)生成。
玻色因->信息传递->年轻细胞/衰老细胞->生成GAGs

粘多糖的作用:
由糖醛酸和氨基糖(GAG)组成,是皮肤细胞外基质ECM的大量组成成分之一。能够吸收大量水分,防止肌肤水分散失,(可以想象成)形成由水组成的胶状体结构。GAGs分子结构具有吸水能力,使基质网状结构更有弹性,提高细胞紧致性。

一个不成熟的想法:这跟简单的补水是不一样的,毕竟水分子很大,从细胞表层的结构来看,水分子根本没办法进入皮肤,日常的补水是伪命题,保湿可以说是保持皮肤表层水分的蒸发,这个倒是可以理解。但要做到使基质网状结构更有弹性,还是要靠皮肤本身的生物化学作用,也就是还要靠GAGs。

想起三亩叔曾经说过的一个观点:护肤品有效成分的作用机制,可能是通过传递信息给皮肤细胞自己完成的,大概意思是这样,原话不记得了。

--未完待续

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