As I went on a pilgrimage

A few days ago I returned from a trip (one might say, a mini-pilgrimage) which can firmly be called the best of those that I have had. His first post on TJ, I want to share with you what a Way of St. James in the north of Spain, how much is it and why you will not regret the money spent.
Introduction
As stated in Wikipedia, the Way of St. James, El Camino de Santiago - the famous pilgrimage road to the alleged tomb of the apostle James in the Spanish city of Santiago de Compostela, the main part of which lies in the North of Spain. Probably many as a year ago, I do not even heard of this (or maybe it's just up to me not to get it?), But today this path is one of the most popular hiking trails in the world. There are many variations on how you can get to the final point in Santiago de Compostela, but the most popular way is the French Way with a total length of about 750 kilometers.

As I learned about this Way and why I decided to pass it? I've never been a religious man, but my environment consists mainly of office workers, so it is not surprising that such things often pass me by, but this time I stumbled on the movie "The Way" by Emilio Estevez and immediately realized how I spend the next vacation. He tells about an American doctor, went to the French Pyrenees, to pick up the remains of his son, who was killed in the Way of St. James. Upon arrival, he decides to go the way of his son and take his ashes to Santiago de Compostella. Sounds pretty tragic, but the film is rather saturated with bright sadness, so you definitely will enjoy, as well as the first performance, what is the Camino De Santiago (hereinafter - Camino).

Preparation
Of all the routes I chose the most popular French Way. Firstly, because it is very beautiful, and secondly, because it is the most developed in terms of infrastructure - as it was my first trip of this kind, I do not want to feel yourself more than you need. Full French road takes about 30-35 days, because it was too much for me (after all, I am not a free artist), I decided to go a third way, namely 250 of the 750 kilometers that took me 12 days.

My preparation for the journey consisted in three things: the purchase of the necessary Staffa, physical training and analysis of useful information about the way of specifics.

Equipment
List of the main things that I bought (mainly in the Decathlon) or borrowed, it looks as follows:

• backpack

• Suitcases

• sleeping bag

• Trekking shoes

• pants

• shorts

• Jacket and shirt

• Jacket, windbreaker (never useful)

• 2 T-shirts

• Microfiber towel

• Flip-flops and shale (a more versatile choice - a spanking)

• All sorts of stuff: a bottle opener, a flashlight (which I immediately lost), raincoat, medicines, etc.

Physical training
On average, each day you will be held from 8-10 pounds behind 25 kilometers through the fields, forests and mountains, which takes about 6-8 hours. By the time I was half a year went into the room with a standard training program 3 times a week. I can not say that after the decision to go in the way I changed something in it, except that became greater emphasis on foot - walking, running and climbs up the hill. That was enough for me to not experience any problems in the campaign.

Helpful information
There are a lot of Russian-speaking and English-speaking resources where you can learn almost everything about the Way. I will give you links to the main Russian portal, as well as the official guide.

The financial side of the matter
The cost of equipment (based on the fact that the bag I got for free, and the rest of the list above I did not have, in principle) reached 20-25 thousand rubles, while the plane and train tickets there and back out about 28 to. Already in place on food and housing, on average, goes to 30 euros per day. The advantage of going to cost souvenirs, wine and extra traffic (if you are, say, like me, are thinking to go after Santiago Fenisterry to see "the end of the old world"), which adds about 100-200 euros. Thus, on my 15 day trip I took about 100 thousand, although it is worth noting that you can meet in a much smaller amount

Journey
On the Way of St. James, I went with my friend who is just like me, inspired by the film, and in the end we went 250 kilometers of roads and paths, met hundreds of people and in the end got the official certificate pilgrim. Next, I want briefly to document our journey. It will poludnevnikovy format, since here I want to not only dryly talk about the details of travel, but also to share their thoughts and experiences, to fix them, not only to you, the readers, but also for himself. Camino de Santiago - is not only expensive, it is, in many ways, its own dialogue with himself, as well as with the people you meet.

Day 1 Astorga - Rabanal
His path we started from Astorga, where we arrived on the train from Madrid the day before. It is a small city with a population of about 12 thousand people, which, however, is considered a great transit point on the Way of St. James, as most of the road goes through a very small village. We woke up at about 6 am (by the standards of Camino even a little late - people get 5 or 5:30) and the inspired, went on the road.

The first day was very simple: only 19 kilometers on a fairly level surface. We came to our first city Rabanal at 12 noon and were still full of energy. Especially after we ate our first dinner Menu del Peregrino, which is a likeness of a business lunch, only two times more than in Moscow, and is served at any time of the day. This is the first course (soup, pasta or salad), the second (all sorts of variations of meat or fish with fries), and dessert wine (sometimes can bring a whole bottle per person) - for all 10 euro. Despite the fact that there were many forces, we decided to follow the plan and do not peretruzhdaetsya themselves in the early days. After dinner we settled in his first Ahlberg (a kind of hostel for pilgrims) for 5 euros. They are of two types - municipal and private. The difference from the first second, that there is always a wi-fi, and are generally more comfortable environment for sleep and rest (smaller number of beds in the room, a clean bathroom, etc.), but the municipal Arlberg is also very good (there not as tough as shown in the film). The price difference is usually around 2-5 euros: municipalities have a fixed price of 6 euros, while the private cost from 5 to 10 (only closer to Santiago prices start to go up to 15)

After checking in the Arlberg we just wandered through the village, drank, ate and talked with foreigners. It appeared that the way of so many Americans, who mostly start their route from the first point in France. I asked many people, where did this popularity, most answered that they hit the road after the film, as I do. Apparently, there's this film is a great success. In addition to the Americans more conspicuous part of a group of Koreans, but they did not contact me especially, because they have been there has its own atmosphere, and they usually communicate only among themselves.




Day 2 Rabanal - Molinaseca
The next day we woke up again about 6 o'clock in the morning, served in the bar on the tortilla (Spanish omelette with potatoes) and went to Molinaseca. Yet I did not feel any pain or fatigue and was very pleased that I was in such a good shape (in fact, a reminder that you are a man, begin with 3-4 days' journey). On this day, we had to walk about 25 kilometers of the track is quite complicated, consisting of constant ascents and descents - I was pleased that the day before bought a staff in the shop, which greatly facilitated my life. We even saw one woman surrounded by mobile medical teams, which apparently fell and hit his head on a rock.

On the way we met a Latvian - a man of about forty-five, which we passed the whole day. He's pretty well said in Russian: in his youth he served two years in Tula, where he learned the language. Probably, this is the only traveler from met us, which was really on religionznym reasons. He has a very interesting biography. At one time he worked as an accountant in Latvia, but then contacted the drug and pulled away from a normal life. Once I caught myself thinking that in his notebook - some drug addicts and dealers, he decided it was time to change his life and found support in religion. He now works as a security guard and a hostel in Glasgow, he said, feels fine. He works 10 hours a day (but it just sits in front of monitor and does nothing) and receives a £ 2,000 per month, enough to him to rent an apartment and travel. He told us many amusing life hacking, with the aid of which live some of his friends. In Scotland, for the EU member states have unemployment benefits, as well (bingo) benefits for alcoholics, which is 11 pounds a day. The man said that if all of a sudden we want to shift from Russia, it can we find accommodation and work illegally to 7 pounds a day - a very interesting proposal.

On this day, we again settled in private Ahlberg, but for 7 Euros, where I met a large group mostly Americans and Germans, who go to the starting point of France. Basically, it is any students who so spend your vacation, or workers with a more flexible work schedule, or those who have decided to change their current work, predvatelno passing path.




Day 3 Molinaseca - Villafranca del Bierzo
The next day we woke up a little earlier than usual - we had to go through as much as 30 kilometers. The road, on the whole, was easier than on the last day, but I first started to feel pain in the muscles of the legs - to the slopes hall I did not prepare. We walked for about 8 hours at a good pace, overtaking everyone met before. In Villafranca del Bierzo we had about 2-3 hours of the day, tired and smelly. We first settled in the municipal Albergo - there was even a wi-fi, but the beds were very close to each other, that you barely passed between them.

In this city took place some 3-day reggae festival: even then we met with dudes, pilgrims who stayed to listen to him, and then caught up with us, despite the fact that we were two days ahead. They had to walk 50 km a day, but it's hardcore, and only for those who have a tent. Albergo may be overwhelmed by the 2-3 hours of the day, so it's a real limitation on your movement.

On the same day I met one American from Florida, with whom we have traveled together for the rest of the route. He has three years teaching English in Spain, and before that trained as a political scientist at home. He had a very clear focus and broad-minded, and we communicated very intensively. Probably, after 8 days with us, he has become an expert on Russia - I was telling him about the 90s, their vision of our policy, Putin, Nemtsov, etc. In general, probably, everyone who spoke to me and recognize that I am a Russian (which is rare on the Path), it is always a question of how I feel about Putin. I omit here for your answer, but it seems unlikely my opinion varies widely on the opinion of TJ readers, well, or, at least, it is not so important. In turn, I asked questions about Trump and Hillary, what answers were always the same, that Trump - to put it mildly, not the most intelligent person. Hillary majority does not like, but still it is much better than Donald.





Day 4 Villafranca del Bierzo - O Cebreiro
The fourth day is officially one of the most difficult, as it consists of 25 kilometers and 5 kilometers of plain hard ascent to the mountain village of O Cebreiro. Many of those with whom I had met earlier that day broke into two and stopped in the valley, we're a threesome with American passed all 30 and were very pleased with this: a kind of memorable there.

We settled in a single Arlberg in the village - it was up to 160 people and consisted of two rooms, one of which was for 100 people. Despite this, there was quite comfortable and cozy. The whole day we spent just relaksiruya raspivaya and drinks, as do there was nothing special: the entire village - about 10 houses.



Day 5 O Cebreiro - Triacastela
The next day we woke up as usual, especially hurry we did not need, since the day the route was only 22 kilometers to Triakastela. I would like to emphasize that on the Path of Awakening for me has always been the most difficult part. Usually you wake up not by an alarm clock, but from the fact that a number of someone starts to make noise. You open your eyes, and discern the dark silhouettes of people (in the morning light there is no room, and on the street still dark), which are swarming, collecting their backpacks. After a few minutes you're wading through a dream, you find the strength to get up and join the others. Wash, collecting bag, eat (usually the other did not eat in the morning, and then went to the cafe on the road, but we usually always bought something in the morning) and you go out on a cool street (in the north of Spain, even if the day + 35, in the morning still quite cold, and the temperature can be released to + 7, sometimes with the wind).

Upon arrival we were settled in the next municipal Arlberg, which was very comfortable: there were only 4 people in each room. There we met with students from the UK: three girls from Northern Ireland, and a guy from England. Of course, I asked them about Brexit, their opinion is correlated with the fact that we all read, he nafig they do not give up. Not one of them until the last moment did not believe in such an outcome of the referendum, but we all know what came of it.



Days 6-10 Barbadelo, Portomarin, Ponte Campana, Arzua, Pedrouze
In the following days we walked about 20-25 kilometers a day and stayed in the towns and villages listed above. In Barbadello we lived in a very steep private Albergue just 9 euros - there was even a swimming pool. We specifically have been the largest city Sarria to stay here and be ahead of the mainstream - in Sarria kicks the majority, as officially give the pilgrim certificate is just 100 kilometers. Here the pilgrims join all sorts of students, different tourists who travel without backpacks, and so on. It is not recommend to start with this point: here already you feel the spirit of the Camino.

Portomarin - really a very beautiful city, built next to the River Miño. In it, we first went to see the church service, but since we are absolutely not religious, at some point it was quite embarrassing. The next day we again passed over large settlement Palas de Rei and stayed in a very cozy Albergue in Ponte Campana.

Arzu The first time we did not have time to move into the municipal Arlberg: once for the opening hour of the day has already lined up a long queue. In Pedrouzo we took last place in the private Albergue - so much excitement going on there. In general, many after Sarria begin to book their place in the Arlberg, so if you go too quiet pace and advance rezerviruesh not, then you may well not be enough space.








Day 11 Monte de Gozo
The last 20 kilometers, we were divided into two days to spetsilno stay in Monte de Gozo, where there is a municipal Arlberg 500 people. We are with our friends blunted and accidentally checked into another Arlberg, which by the way, surprisingly, was Polish. At the reception sat grandmother, who did not speak in English and Spanish, but knew Russian. This is the only case where our Hispanic American friend was not in the inheritance, and came on the scene a proud Russian man in the person of me.

Monte de Gozo is just 5 kilometers from Santiago, and we specifically stayed there early in the morning to come to the final point - to get a certificate and listen service for Piligrimm, which starts at 12 am. In the same town, we met a large company, we have overtaken earlier, and which eventually came together in Santiago de Compostela.



Day 12: Santiago de Compostela
Around 8 am we were already in place: pofotkalis, received a certificate and enjoy the end of our journey.

The church service was solemn and beautiful: music body and gorgeous voice Servants.

We arrived in Santiago on July 24, the day just a prelude to the day of St. James, July 25th. The city party atmosphere prevailed, and there were crowds of tourists.

In this day and the next, we no longer slept in the Arlberg and rented rooms by Airbnb and booking.com, which was also quite difficult: it was crowded.

Remaining days
The next day we went to Finisterre, the so-called «end of the world», which wandered along the beach, enjoy the ocean and the sunset was carried out on the beach with a lighthouse.

American grandfather, whom we met at the beginning of the way, told us that in his first campaign in Finisterre spent the whole 8 days, and it can be understood.

conclusion
In conclusion, I want to say that Jacob Way - this is an excellent opportunity to organize themselves adventure, it's a cross between a traditional campaign, Sea holiday and tour of the cities of Spain. I think that everyone will find in it something for everyone. In the meantime, it was the coolest ride of my travel stories.