Entry 1 - Beach Break
This picture was taken after surfing Ocean Beach, CA. It was a challenging but exciting day in the beginning of April. Freezing water, 9-foot waves. The day was beautiful, but the surf was an exhausting, relentless beast that alternated between towering ripcurls that rose up to smack me like a wall of solid ice, and whirlpools of whitewater that would drag me right back to shore. I felt like I was drowning in a deadly, frigid, salty washing machine. It took me at least an hour to even get out past the breakers, but the thrill and victory after riding one in was so worth it! I took this picture because I wanted to remember the feeling I had that day - Of adrenaline, peace and spiritual satisfaction.