Sawarna Daze

in surfing •  3 years ago 

Life goes on here in Sarwana but it's soon coming to an end and we just booked our tickets to Bali. We fly on Monday evening and today booked our taxi from Here to Jakarta airport. Journey time is expected to be roughly eight hours but we also requested our driver to bring an icebox and a few beers to while away the hours...:) Reflecting on the trip so far I can say I have surfed well. I have paddled for some good size waves and nailed a handful of the biggest bombs to come thru. The swell is dropping off tomorrow so I think the last 2 days will be all about practicing style and technique, not just facing fear.

Next two days I think will be more like this photo, clean and glassy conditions but no real size....

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The wave here is perfect for an intermediate surfer to improve their skills on. It's big enough to let you push your boundaries on paddling and take offs. Some of the sets are well over double overhead which is definitely a challenge to push in to. Then it walls up beautifully allowing you to practice turns and snaps.

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I have been using my twin fin every day but I think tomorrow I'm going to take out my Single Fin. Its a brand new board that has not been waxed or wet. I'm kind of a fan of retro surfing styles so when my shaper in Phuket asked me what kind of board I wanted this year I asked him to make me a retro single fin. Im excited to try is as I have never surfed this kind of board before and with the swell dropping off tomorrow I think it's the perfect time. I'll leave you with a couple of nice pics from last few days.

I'm Jobiker and I'm on the single fin tomorrow! Peace!

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