From Porto Velho to Cusco by car, an amazing trip

I've done this itinerary 11 times, all by car and I can guarantee that it's a trip that is very worthwhile. Getting to know Peru, an incredible country close to Brazil is an unforgettable experience. Despite having gone several times, each return is a new sensation, different places and even when we revisit some, it's a new look, we can observe more details, which had passed by other times.

The first time I was in Cusco was in 2011, the year I made this trip twice, in April and September. I went on a Corolla 1.6. I returned from Hilux (2x), Pajero Dakar (4x) and SW4 (1x).

The integration highway, which connects Rondônia to the Pacific, is very beautiful. All of it is paved and it is a trip that is worth it. On the first day (01), I arrived in Puerto Maldonado around 5:30 pm. There are 1,096 kilometers from Porto Velho to Maldonado. A gigantic bridge is being finished (it's ready), so it's still necessary to cross by ferry. This crossing will cost 20 sols (about R$12). (This ferry no longer exists. The bridge was opened in 2011). You should sleep in Puerto Maldonado, don't try to travel at night, later on you will understand why.

Puerto Maldonado is a big city, with busy traffic and lots of people on the streets. Take the opportunity to buy a denim jacket or other winter clothes, you will definitely need it and there the prices are very affordable. Look for a grocery store and also buy some fruit, mineral water, cookies and juices, on the road you will even find these, but you will pay more and you will not have the same variety. We slept in Maldonado, at the Cabaña Quinta hotel. In the city the price of hotels will vary a lot. The daily rate is around 50 to 100 dollars. You can even find cheaper hotels, but quite precarious.

I always stay at this hotel in Maldonado. It is next to the bridge and well located.

I left Puerto Maldonado at 6 am on Friday. In the first 180 kilometers you will already feel that you are going up, but it is almost imperceptible. Several small communities along the highway, all signposted, with speed bumps and signposts. You also begin to notice a change in the landscape, pastures give way to forests. When you arrive in the Santa Rosa community, you really start to climb.

The first mountain range is called Sierra Santa Rosa. In this stretch you start to get an idea of ​​what's ahead, but nothing, absolutely nothing prepares you for the heights to be reached. Due to the fact that it is always uphill, and the road with many winding curves, there is no way to develop speed. And you don't need to. The view is fantastic and stunning. Prepare your camera with batteries and memory cards because you will be impressed.

Even more impressed when you reach the top of the mountain and see a sign informing you that you are at 4,725 meters above sea level, in the Abra Pirhuayani community. But before reaching the heights, you will be thrilled to see, during the ascent, the snowy peaks.

In Abra Pirhuayani (2011)

During the entire ascent the temperature drops. If your car has a heater, you will use it. Otherwise, prepare to feel cold. The air is also thin and the perception of this is very clear, the head hurts a little and you may feel sick. It is worth remembering that this height is absurd and more sensitive people may need an oxygen tube, if that is your case, provide one. Other measures that help prevent Altitude Sickness are abundant hydration, at least four liters of fluids a day. As this need varies greatly from person to person and from situation to situation, the best way to know if we are well hydrated is to look at the color of our urine. It should be very clear, almost like water and in good quantity.

road view

Going down, but not so much

Once you reach the top, it starts to descend, but not so much. Cusco is 3,300 meters above sea level. During your entire stay in the city, you may experience a slight headache and feeling sick if you don't take measures such as constant hydration, aspirin and use of oxygen. In Cusco you can find oxygen to sell in supermarkets at 40 sols (R$ 25 in 2011 / R$ 65 today). I arrived in town around 5 pm on Friday.

Cusco is immense and at first glance it is not impressive. You will arrive via Avenida de la Cultura, which is under construction (completed) and will continue along it until you pass the third pedestrian walkway. At this point, stop and find out about Plaza de Armas, the city's main tourist landmark. In the region there are many hotels with daily rates from US$ 40 to US$ 1,000. That's right, there prices are calculated in US dollars, which is well accepted, as well as the local currency. The climate in the city is always mild, with temperatures now in the summer around 12 degrees during the day and at night it can reach 6. For us who live in Rondônia it is a tremendous shock.

View of the Plaza de Armas

Tupac Amaru statue

At Plaza de Armas you will be dazzled. Churches built by Spaniards during colonization, Jesuit monastery, impressive work, spectacular gardens and many tourists on the streets. People from all over the world.

A tip, the stores that are around the square are more expensive, if you go a little out of this script, you will find the same things many times for a third of the price.

Look for restaurants that serve seafood or pasta. Peruvian cuisine is not very pleasant for those with sensitive stomachs. They use a lot of spices and pepper. In the city it is also possible to find snack bars that serve sandwiches, due to the large number of Europeans and Americans. If you want to risk ‘new flavors’, the tip is the full parrilla, which comes with pork, beef and chicken.

The city is great for wine lovers. In the restaurants it is possible to find many Argentine and Peruvian wines and a few Chilean ones. Prices vary, but one of the most expensive is around 90 sols (R$56 in 2011 – R$138 today) and the cheapest is around 20 sols. If your hotel doesn't have parking, which is common, look for one, you'll pay 15 sols/day.

It is best to get around the city on foot or by taxi. Peruvians aren't very easy on the road and it's better for them to sort themselves out. Cusco, like any city in Latin America, tends to charge more from its tourists. Credit cards are widely accepted in the city. The average price to visit the churches and other monuments is 10 sols per person, but it is well worth it. Inside the places it is forbidden to take pictures of pieces of art, such as paintings and altars, made of cedar and covered with gold.

Machu Picchu
All over Cusco there are references to Machu Picchu, the Inca city rediscovered on July 24, 1911, which was the result of an expedition by Yale University, under the responsibility of the American professor Hiram Bingham. Due to human work and geographic location, Machu Picchu is considered a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. But to visit this monument you need to buy your ticket a day in advance. In Cusco there are hundreds of agencies that take tourists with prices ranging from U$ 100 to U$ 300. You can go there by van or train and the visit takes a whole day, so if you want to make this visit, plan ahead. up. In addition to Picchu, there are dozens of other archaeological sites in the surroundings, just enter any agency and prepare your package.

Drawbacks and tips
The Abunã ferry delays the trip by about 40 minutes. The roads in Acre are poorly maintained and without signage or informational signs. You get lost and when you find someone and ask for information, they don't know. On the Brazilian side of immigration, there is no information. When I arrived, I went straight through because a National Force guard indicated it. Upon arriving at Peruvian immigration I was informed of the need for an exit record on the Brazilian side and had to go back to do the procedure. On the Peruvian side of the highway, in all the villages there are speed bumps, at least two, which also prevents too much running on the road. During the ascent, at some points, the water comes out of the wall and crosses the track, so be careful with aquaplaning. There, if it falls, not even the soul escapes. On some stretches of the road there are signs informing you about the possibility of landslides, so be careful. During the ascent or descent, sound the horn when turning. Trust me, you will need this. Don't forget to buy warm clothes or take home.

When buying anything in Cusco, haggle. An object that they ask for 100 solis can go for 50. Respect motorcycles, in Peru this is the main vehicle used.

You have to haggle in Cusco. The savings will be significant

Arm yourself with patience, the road is long, tiring and you can't run uphill. In addition, the trip is worth it and the distance to be covered is practically the same between Porto Velho and Cuiabá. The difference is that you will be getting to know a different culture and at a very low cost. My entire trip cost R$1,700.00, staying comfortably, eating well and buying a bunch of Peruvian souvenirs. Don't forget to check the brakes and tires, you can't take chances with bald tires. If your car has a 1.0 engine, it can even go up, but it will take longer. In Peru most cars are 1.0. Those traveling by van should avoid traveling in Cuzco with the car. The streets are narrow. Leave it in a garage and take a taxi. Don't try hacks, like trying to pass using any document. The only ones accepted are ID or Passport. All in all, have a nice trip, it's worth it.

in 2019
In March 2019 I retraced the way and found a very different Cusco. They celebrated carnival and other festivals, with events throughout the city. A beautiful festival of colors that enchanted everyone who visited the city at the time.

Only this time, I stayed in a Boutique Hotel, the Garden Of San Blas, owned by a Spaniard who has lived in Cusco for a decade, Jesus.

Garden is $100 a day, but it's worth every penny. It really is personalized service. Jesus has exceptional tips for guests, plots itineraries, prepares a spectacular breakfast, and if you're a cooking enthusiast like me, he lets you venture into the pots.

In the link, Flickr photo album (various images)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7433690@N08/albums/72157715549448298

Strolling through the city you will find many street artists. Peruvians playing their flutes, women with llamas, in short, all the diversity offered by the city.