The Trip of Many Mountain Passes - R90S + Swiss

This was posted on my travel blog last year. Reprinting here.

I needed some time off, on my own, and in my book nothing beats a serious road trip. Since the F800GS is in repair, and also to test its legendary sturdiness, the BMW R90S embarked on the Trip of Many Mountain Passes. I had one goal, go up the Stelvio from the east side towards Bormio. By the time I was back home after 3 days, the R90S and I went up and down Nufenen (CH) (2478m), St Gotthard (2108m), Oberalp (2044m), Julier (2284m), Ofen (2149m), Stelvio (IT)(2758m), Bernina (CH) (2328m) and Klausen (1948m). Mountain passes in Europe have strong historical underpinnings. They were migration routes, trading axes, strategic locations that shaped economies, warfare, and countries. Switzerland has many passes, none with more impact on the country and Europe than the St Gotthard, which is really the birthplace of the Swiss direct democracy as we know it today.

Valais

Coming into Valais is a special moment, the turn in Martigny south east down the Rhone Valley, with the glorious ranges on each side. In time I've done quite a few of the smaller valleys, where the ever unfinished A9 highway lays. Zermatt of course, with its candy like Matterhorn, beacon of a region and country that prides itself in symbols of eternity and strength. Like Toblerone, I guess.

The BMW R90S, analog pleasure

R90S Nufenen
Fully trimmed R90S on the Nufenen. Note the RAK tank bag with the Tripy.

The R90s is a very well sorted bike. Mine's a series 3 '76 model, 40 years old and it eats miles like I eat Swiss chocolate, smoothly, efficiently, with the odd rattle akin to Gramdma screeching her teeth, randomly. It's the second time I take her (the r90s) for a long trip, and it's been an amazing few days. There is some unique in having that analog experience, where carburetors choke when air rarefies, dials move with some hesitation, and the sound of the muffler has a irregular, metallic beat that serves as a reminder of what a mechanical feat the machine is. The flat twin architecture was 50 years old by the time the big 900cc was engineered. And since everything is outside in this setup, like the Centre Pompidou it is all there for one to see. The fuel hose feed the carbs, the spark plug connected to the distributor, the battery feeding the analog switches and lights. Modern bikes have lots of advantages and having ridden a 1200RT, the grand-grand-grand child of the R90S, I appreciate the evolution and love it. But an analog moment has some poetry to it that makes such a trip all the more personal.

I use the Tripy for most of the trip. Whilst the roads are well marked, in some places you get to the wrong valley, the wrong pass, and that gets you nowhere fast... And you could end up on one of the numerous Swiss highways without wanting it.

I'm not sure which of the 8 passes was the most beautiful. Road quality, traffic, scenery all contribute to such a score, and none have it all. The biggest surprise was Klausen. I really felt like being in a typical Swiss Bollywood movie set going through the valley. And the way down towards the west is on the side of a cliff, literally.

Gotthard R90S
On the Gotthard pass with all the trail signs and the Grand Tour of Switzerland panel
St Gotthard and the creation of Swiss direct democracy

St Gotthard is legendary and remains the main north south passage through the Alps. 3 Tunnels, one for trains (1882)

one for the highway (1980) and the latest for trains being the longest ever built at 57.1km, and 2 roads. The semi-highway takes you up quickly but the "Tremola" is the ancient paved road one has to take for that historic and dramatic feel of history. It's called "Tremola" because the cobblestones shake your teeth and motorcade with the clear intent of disconnecting every piece from one another. The R90S dials actually developed a rattle after the way up, in first or second gear, to avoid bicycles, carriages and cows. The video is from a previous trip, didn't have that much drama this time!

https://video-cdg2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t43.1792-2/880165_10151490949209367_4284629624_n.mp4?efg=eyJybHIiOjE1MDAsInJsYSI6MzMzNywidmVuY29kZV90YWciOiJsZWdhY3lfaGQifQ%3D%3D&rl=1500&vabr=951&oh=b5a2820f83263a102d296529b79e63e5&oe=579E28E9

St Gotthard forced the an agreement between three swiss cantons to its north, Uri, Schwytz which gave the country its name, and Nidwald in 1291. Over the following centuries it added cantons to the north, west, and finally south. Because it was inherently an alliance, the constitutional framework had to be federal, and since the cantons were small its male population

Gotthard R90S
Tremola, up the St Gotthard
actually voted laws by hand, from time to time, in the main town's square. The Landsgemeinde created the foundations for the direct democracy that Switzerland has thus practiced and refined since the 13th century.

Entrenching direct democracy

As the Confederation spread to its current limits a proper constitution was drafted, and approved in sequence between 1850 and 1891. The latter had strong articles on direct democracy, entrenching the practice in all Cantons. A male practice by default, the inclusion of women vote was only accepted in 1971 at the federal level, and the last canton to accept was Appenzell RI in 1990. The main argument there being that there was not enough room to do the Landsgemeinde, or vote by hand, in the town's square...

It wasn't all a breeze since the Swiss fought many wars with its neighbors, whom later confederates, and had had some civil wars as well. A balance had to be found to guarantee peace, and that rationale also prompted a fierce neutrality that meant the country has not been at war since 1815. Although neutrality was seen as partial, especially in the second world war, it has allowed Switzerland to serve as diplomatic conduit in many instances where countries had no relations, like the U.S. and Iran, or Israel and Arab states. It also prompted many international organisation to settle in Geneva, the small town of 250'000 influencing the course of world history as a consequence. And it all started at the St Gotthard...

Democracy is earned, not imposed

Whilst Switzerland still votes most laws by referenda, other countries use the referendum tool on an ad-hoc basis, i.e. rarely. The voting population therefore use these to vent political frustrations rather than think about how it will really affect their future. That leads to weird results which are sometimes just ignored, and at other times applied but with a sense that voters didn't quite think it through. Direct democracy, and I would venture any form of proper democracy, cannot be imposed overnight. It took many conflicts and lots of pain for democracies to function once its people were convinced that, while it is no perfect, it does bring peace and stability. A country cannot go from tribal systems or decades of dictatorship and become a bona fide democracy. Yet that is what seems to be the blueprint in many dislocated countries, one that only build frustration and unfortunately, death.

Up Bernina R90S
Bernina, between Italy and St Moritz
Democracy needs to be earned, fought for and accepted by the people and that is why it fails everywhere it's imposed.

My trip around these millenary passes around the only country with direct democracy at federal, cantonal and local level has reminded me of how an imperfect system can become acceptable to all because it is the best one we've tried. I'm not sure that applies everywhere.