Learning Surfing and How Not To Chase The Big Waves

Since I met my boyfriend I wanted to learn how to surf. It always seems to me like a cool sport that I have to try. As a runner I usually prefer to keep my feet on a solid ground, but still I wanted to try to catch some waves. 

One time, when my boyfriend and I traveled to a small beach town in El Salvador, I decided it was time to learn how to surf! He tried to teach me how to surf on his surfboard, but I didn’t managed to stand on his short board. It was clear that I needed a larger surfboard to practice on.

My next try was in another beach in  El Salvador, where I found a place that rented longboards. The only problem was that the entire beach was full of stones, so for a newbie like me it wasn’t ideal. But it didn’t stop me, I was too excited not to get into the water and try to learn how to surf. After a few painful falls I managed to ride the white water. 

The next day I wanted to try to catch some waves and for some reason I decided to go to a surf point, where the real surfers were surfing. It was BIG MISTAKE. On my second try I fell down so hard, I thought I going to drown. I wasn’t ready for those kind waves, and I needed to swim back to the shore. Once I got close to the shore the waves kept dragging me back inside. The seabed and the beach were full of stones and it only made it harder to get out of there. Thanks to my boyfriend and another guy, I finally managed to get outside of water. After this scary experience, I decided it was enough for me.

I left surfing aside for a while, but when I moved to Costa Rica to a surfer town I couldn’t resist it and I had to try it again. I took a surf lesson and I even bought a surfboard. Eventually I was able to surf on the whitewater and on some small waves (very small). Of course I wish I could catch some bigger and better waves, but I learned my lesson, and besides that it’s still fun to surf on the small ones. After all I’m more of a land sports kind of person, I’m a runner..