Opinions on Nha Trang, Vietnam as a tourism destination seems to split people in two, so I thought I'd share my experiences in Nha Trang for anyone considering going there.
In this article I'll cover some need-to-know basic information as well as some personal highlights and lowlights for anyone who is planning (or just pondering!) a trip there.
Why go to Nha Trang?
Nha Trang is located in the province of Khanh Hoa, and is roughly one quarter up Vietnam's 3200km+ coastline. Nha Trang is known for its beautiful weather, long stretches of beaches, luxurious hotels with an international flavour, as well as some hidden historical, cultural, and spiritual places that I'll share more about in this article.
Nha Trang is beautiful, and to me is the perfect location to spend say two or three nights in, as part of a broader or longer Vietnam trip. I suppose after Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, Nha Trang often comes up on a tourists' agenda as a place to visit. The city is very accessible and catered towards western tourists (which is for better and for worse); but there is still the cultural ethnic Vietnamese culture that permeates amongst the flashy hotels and stylish cocktail crowd on its pretty white-sand beaches.
Then there is the nearby surrounds to explore. Hiring motorbikes, bicycles, or even a private taxi can take you to many spiritual, religious, and cultural sites in the immediate area.
Or, you can just use your time in Nha Trang to indulge. To some this could be the craziest nightclubs with pumping music, exotic and inventive cocktails, and sassy local nightlife characters; or to others it could be a more mellow pampering in day-spas, cold drinks on the beach, and slow strolls up and down the promenades.
The food is incredible almost everywhere we went, and some local modern cultural oddities also abound; making Nha Trang an experience as the sum of all of its' parts; an intriguing and sometimes humorous one.
Getting there:
I should mention that we ended up in Nha Trang in the peak intensity of summer (we were there during June) which, in hindsight was probably a bad idea, as the humidity and temperature go well beyond that 'pleasant, balmy summer' vibe, into an at-times stifling and exhausting endurance.
This was worst felt when one day we decided to hire bicycles with the intent on heading to a big Buddha shrine that was visible on the horizon. We packed on a little bit of water and clearly it wasn't enough; the heat was overbearing, and our fitness levels were questionable at best; with the snaking roads taking much longer to get to our temple than anticipated!
But I digress; getting there from the other major Vietnamese cities is quite easy, with direct flights with both low-cost and the national carrier airline (Vietnam Airlines). Nha Trang airport is actually located in nearby Cam Ranh town, and is a good 40km to Nha Trang town. I recommend organising a private taxi prior to arriving, for a fixed price, for the ride from airport to town. Cam Ranh is also an international airport that flies (surprisingly, see below) direct routes from places like Russia, Singapore, and other major Asian city hubs.
Costs & expenses:
For those on a budget; Vietnam overall is a place where most foreign currencies will stretch very far. But within that I suppose, Nha Trang offers "beach-side luxury on a shoestring" when it comes to accommodation and food. Perhaps this is why Nha Trang is so favoured by Russian tourists (see culture and people below). I imagine Russian Roubles would go quite far in beachside Nha Trang; and tropical, sunny, white-sand beaches probably aren't something that Russia offers domestically!
For instance, our little group of four friends stayed at a luxurious 4-start tower resort. We hired two x 2-bedroom suites between the four of us, and our stay included all facilities use and breakfast daily (but excluded pampering such as massages and beauty spa treatments, and cocktails at the swim-up pool bar). The cost equivalent, when backed out to my native Australian Dollar, would barely pay for a cheap and nasty 1 or 2-star roadside motel in most cities and towns in Australia (let alone summery beachside towns in Australia!).
Food costs are on par with, if not a tiny fraction higher than the bigger cities in Vietnam. Other activities such as surfboard hire, bicycles, jet ski's etc. are on-par with other parts of Vietnam. To most travellers these activities will be very affordable.
Accommodation & Dining:
Your money really does go far in Nha Trang when it comes to accommodation. And, all of the trimmings and indulgences such as little chocolates and a turn-down service on your pillow/bed every night; fast and delicious high quality room service meals, fresh linens and toiletries daily, cable TV (you won't watch much TV in beautiful Nha Trang! Too much to see outdoors); all of this is there to the standard of a western country's 4-star hotel.
Ours even had a complete art gallery on the 3rd floor (including a full-time staffer who sold pieces to many eager Chinese mainland tourists as we observed).
Food options abound when out and about in Nha Trang, with everything from 5-star luxurious white-cloth seafood restaurants, right through to hole-in-the-wall Pho soup bars where you sit on old milk crates and flies buzz around relentlessly as you soak in the atmosphere of the local side-street . And, there's everything in between, of course.
Due to the European influence culturally (see below); there is also a great diversity of not only Vietnamese cuisine, but other pan-Asian delights as well as European (French, Russian, and Italian, Spanish foods we observed) flavours too.
We mostly stuck to local stuff.
In Sydney Australia where I live, we are spoilt for choice in Vietnamese foods and restaurants, but there's something special about eating delights that are even more specific to the region of Vietnam you are in. Little extra spices or different oils and vegetables are surprising touches that make the local cuisine highly memorable.
Also, as with anywhere in Vietnam, don't drink the tap water and drink only bottled water (being weary of drinks served to you with lots of ice-cubes in them; likely these ice cubes were made from tap water).
Culture & People:
Culture and people were a mixed bag, in Nha Trang. Overall it was a wonderful experience however in an honest and earnest recount of my experiences I ought to share both the good and the not-so-good.
I learned that Nha Trang to Russia was an airline route established decades ago, and I believe off the back of military purposes/relations during war times between the two countries. However, commercial/tourism flights were established when stories of the beach-side beauty and climate became highly desirable to Russians affluent enough to travel abroad.
So yes, I was a little taken aback by seeing such a heavy Russian influence culturally in Nha Trang. I'm talking: signage on the streets either in bilingual (Russian, Vietnamese), or multilingual (Russian, Vietnamese, English); I'm talking shops in town all fronted, staffed, or owned by Russians (jewellers, florists, news agencies etc.). I'll be honest, there are parts to the downtown that feel a little bit 'Russian Mafia' run.
And one thing is very apparent: the local Russians and Vietnamese do not seem to get along; nor integrate/mix well together. It is not the best representation of harmonious multiculturalism in this town.
Speaking to locals, their complaints about Russians is that they are buying all the businesses and forcing any localised competitor out of business (this includes hotels, bars, and nightclubs as well as retail shops).
The rich Russians come for holidays draped in their wealth (bling, Prada bags, chauffeurs you get the picture), and whilst I must stress that not ALL Russians we encountered were rude to pretty much everyone (especially local Vietnamese people), but most we encountered had a horrible attitude, like rich spoilt brats!
But if you can overlook that (or, acknowledge it for what it is with great mindfulness; but then move on); it is then you'll discover the fantastic cultural and vibrant treasures Nha Trang offers. Fun bars, clubs, restaurant, and parties abound; and everyone in these environments do get along and have fun!
Spiritually and historically; there is also much to experience. In fact, these were easiest my fondest memories of Nha Trang. Stunning temples, shrines, giant Buddha statues, and meditation valleys abound, in most directions around Nha Trang (particularly the north). There are also nods to Hindu influences as much as Buddhist, and some absolutely stunning ruins that are; right up to present day; deeply respected by locals. In fact, projects to keep such monuments in "sustained decay" was a take-away that I was very pleased to observe.
Even if you aren't staying in a highrise resort, I do recommend getting to the rooftops of some of the taller towers for a nice drink at the bar and to soak up the views. We went up to Skylight bar which is in the tallest tower in Nha Trang (complete with nightclub, 360 degree stunning sunset views, and a glass-floor viewing deck for the brave!) which is a must-do at dusk on any evening you are there.
Getting around:
As mentioned, hiring bicycles or motorbikes/scooters is worth doing, since Nha Trang is probably one of the less-busy cities in Vietnam. This means that for locals who are a bit frightened by the 'organised chaos' of the roads in Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi; Nha Trang can offer a less congested compact city to explore, with wider, more modern roads that offer greater safety.
Otherwise, many areas of the main beach strip are walkable enjoyably (unless the humidity is too intense!); and public and private taxis as well as some public buses are always on hand should you need those.
Summing it up:
Nha Trang in my mind is perfect for a short trip in amongst a bigger Vietnam journey. One night isn't enough, but two or three I think is the ideal itinerary. Whilst Nha Trang is a beachside modern tourism-driven place; it is not without its sense of history, culture, fun, and adventure in its own way.
If you had only one week in Vietnam, I'd probably skip Nha Trang in favour of other places in the South or North; but if you have 2 or more weeks during the summer months, Nha Trang should be on your list!
End-note: all images used are my own.
