Hitchhiking by the deepest Russia. «BAMovschina» or in the morning to the edge of consciousness. Part 2

in travel •  8 years ago 

This story was written two years ago, when we began our journey. Continuation of the story. 

Part 1 here.

 Weather in Siberia harsh - so we did not take risks, prefer to Tynda accessible by train, to travel with a child does not become a monthly struggle with the cold, the beast and the "desert road". And local said to Taksimo hitchhiking can go a week and to Tynda and the longer. Such prolonged travel by BAM in our plans did not, because time is not so much - on the New Year we want to be in Indonesia.

Our daughter was tired.

Barguzin ridge. Soon the snow came up to us.

The ramp is in a village that does not know for what it is.

Walk under the railway bridge

Shooting reportage about a child who is traveling.

Mountains the Severomuisk ridge.

Broken road bridges.

But we knew, here it is necessary to go back. Then just need to spend the time and get into real roads, made by people with a capital letter "Р", who lived one idea.

The monument in the village Tunnelniy (translate Tunnel)

Behind the back of 1500 km, and somewhere not too far from Lake Baikal.

The Devil's bridge. Radial bridge

The height of the saddle

The village Severomuisk.

The Folk art. Here is the playground.

Monument to the fallen in the Great Patriotic War. Nobody is forgotten, nothing is forgotten 1941-1945 year

However, time for a walk and explore still remained. When Dima was interviewing residents of BAM, he met with Sergei Ivanovich. He invited us to stay with him as long as necessary. And then, along with a friend Anzor, invited to tea, on the local area (such as a summer residence, just next to the house). Seen immediately lifted the mood: cucumbers growing in a glasshouse on the background of snow-capped mountains and the outdoor temperature -5 ° C looked at least strange.

The temperature outside -5° C.

Anzor, resides at BAM since 1973 (I can be mistaken in the date, but certainly from the 70s). Most of his career he worked as a foreman tunnel-boring. They built many tunnels on the road way, the main - the Baikal tunnel (Davan Pass) and Severomuisk tunnel. Stories that during the passage of the Baikal tunnel punched channel radon river with water temperature +80 ° C, the consequences were grim. About this case, of course, silent. Just silent and the high background radiation in Severomuisk tunnel. The fact that the Japanese had come to work, after the measurement, ran out hell for leather. But this does not scare our - always have in stock erasing a couple of cowards plumbum.

The Village Tunnel. Seven years ago, there lived about 15 000 people, today the once prosperous village was a trace of like a dinosaur - barely noticeable. Concrete road, with the remains of fences, foundations, so abandoned trailer local businessman. Along the way, he said: "There used to be a nice settlement, on the right the fire service. There, you see, the rest of the concrete? It was a house of culture, and there is a gym.That's right ... my home was. " And now on the site of former homes trees grow, there is a monument in honor of the fallen in 1945, reminiscent of "we were here."

Go away from talking about the power of human potential, it is necessary to pay attention to the symbiosis of nature and human structures.

Nature in these places causes the camera to get and do countless pictures. Mountain, about three thousand meters high. Before the village Tunnel, twenty meters from the car, the bear ran across our path. There dwells a lot of birds. Rivers rich with fish. In the forests of berries and cedar cones. Here all in abundance, and it's all around you, beside the road, or so apartments in the village.

Three generations of hats.

This home is a stretch of the tunnel.

The Bilberry.

The Сowberry.

Rotary tunnel created for the climb trains.

Welcome to Severomuisk. Was born 1977 yer.

View from the yard.

Every time we looked at these mountains, we wanted to leave our mark on them from the snowboard.

Thay in the playground.

Unfortunately formed trashcan on the street.

Myself personally, I put a tick in the future: it is necessary to drive a few times here. The first autumn about two weeks earlier than it is now, for example on a motorcycle. Or raft the rivers and, if possible, to go hunting and fishing. Secondly, in the winter. Soul of backcountry snowboarder trembled - have to take split and cut slopes from morning till night. Mountain couloirs, descending directly to the road at the pass, do not leave us indifferent, freeride in these areas should be impressive.

As we went around the neighborhood with the filming, Christina bought a train ticket to Tynda. And when we returned, she fed us delicious. And then, the next gathering, sharing recorded material. Taya even had time to get acquainted with the local children and play in the playground. Hardly able to explain to her that we should go further. She did often asked: "When we come?". As a child of five years make it clear that this is the beginning of the world tour and we go for three years, three years of wandering, for the sake of understanding the world.

A short farewell on the platform. We are going to train, and to be happy soul. Because we are going on and it's only just begun.

We met on the road and had become good friends.

Waiting for a train.

Daughter quickly found her place.

It is sad to part with friends.

We are in the town of Tynda.

Road on the train is like traveling in a cafe. Almost does not change the picture, but people change. Since the advent of Taya into the train, immediately began to feed the neighbors. It's nice to see kindness. First, there is a strange sense of caution - the people in tattoos, someone with a watch, and suddenly can rob. But then you realize it's inspired by a stereotype. By the morning were on the table candy, apples. With her we will certainly not perish from hunger.

In the morning the snow again.

Cold but fun northern hitchhiking.

Getting off the train to Tynda, we decided immediately to advance in the way. Unfortunately, there is no possibility to stay in the city, because the means and provisions run out. I would like a little bit to recover, but we know that a couple of nights just have to be held in a tent.

To Blagoveshchensk, we drove for two days. That is, two nights next to the road, good child loves camping life.

However, the road is difficult not to be called. We came to the conclusion that those who help travelers - kind and helpful people eager to communicate or travel themselves.

That drew attention:

Igor, a native of Riga, lives in Tynda since the construction of BAM, is now practicing this method of urban research. Comes to town between shifts, hired to work there, as a rule, a taxi driver. Work out a month or two. And, thanks to this method, know the city, the mentality of the locals, and even history. He picked us after we have walked a couple of kilometers from Tynda and drove us 35 kms. There we spent the night in the forest on the moss, but as it turned out, in a very uncomfortable position. In the morning cold, everything is covered snow.

After spending the night on the Tynda River, the morning went to the track. Stopped the guys thought that we would not fit with the things in the car and drove on. Stopped one guy, he thought, and said: "Do not put". In the end, it took a few minutes to watch, those guys are returning for us.

- Yes, we are accustomed to the cold, thank you.
- You snowboarders?
- Yes, the ride.
- Long ride?
Seven years already, five of them backcountry.
- What is this?
- It's in the mountains on foot to go up to his chest in the snow or on the split and snowshoeing.
- Well, well more.
400 kilometers passed as if in a time machine.

Two Nikita.

Driver Oleg.

We are in Blagoveshensk city.

Nikita driver, rally driver, candidate master of sports. He prepared cars, he drives and achieves success. He travelled throughout Russia, participating in competitions.

Passenger Nikita, snowboarder engaged in the second season. The goal for the near future is to travel around all the continents. To visit at least one place in each continent. We have to visit South America and Antarctica.

The new year is going to the Philippines.

They dropped us off in Belogorsk.

An hour later we were sitting in the truck a pleasant companion Oleg. On the way he told what and where is.Where is drowned, where the hurricanes took down. He has led us to a house in Blagoveshchensk, where we had to stop.
There we were received hospitable Natalia.

And while there is time to relax, we are trying to tune in to word processing. We had time to give an interview to a local television station. Took a walk around the city enjoyable. It is interesting to stand on the embankment of the Amur River, to look to the other side and think that there is a different country. And we have in this country to live a month, and try to learn about it more in detail, to see everything firsthand.

Blagoveshchensk - a small town with wide streets and beautiful waterfront, nice parks. There are places where you can just stop and sit on the bench. It is always nice after a long journey for a short time to sit down and relax while waiting for new adventures.

Be kind, I wish you all most funny. Restless family

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