This is an authorized translation in English of a post in French by @marc-allaria: LA LONGUE ROUTE DE MAESHA: MADEIRA • Iles Desertas
As my primary language is not English, there are probably some mistakes in my translation.
Remember that the person who speaks here is NOT me, Vincent Celier (@vcelier), but Marc Allaria (@marc-allaria), a French guy.
DESERTAS ISLANDS
It is decidedly very difficult to escape the system of nature reserves in Madeira. Until I left the archipelago, this concept mixing without fear of contrasts the ecological values with the local economic interests will pursue me relentlessly! The Desertas Islands are undoubtedly one of the most impressive groups of islands in Madeira. High cliffs plunging their virgin rocks into the ocean. Caves submerged or embedded in the rock wall. Fabulous brown, red, gray rocks at sunset time. The location is superb.
And then, in the only roughly flat place on the island, there is a construction of cement and wood, surrounded by paths shaped along the coast, with tables and chairs for about 50 tourists, welcoming three or four very friendly guards, including toilets for 50 people, having modified the coast somewhat to access the pebble beach, having authorized the establishment of mooring posts for tourist boats, was established in order to bring us the message next: "Please do not adulterate this superb site" !!! It's a joke! This establishment belonging to the nature reserve achieves in practice everything that it even forbids others to do. While the place is virgin and calm by nature, the nature reserve has built a building, part of which is used for tourist reception. This is nonsense which sees some fifty tourists every day creating a Tropezian agitation a few meters from an endangered seal protection area. In opposition to this unpacking of commercial activity, when I asked to dive quietly in the bay, this was refused to me because not authorized by the regulations !!! You are not serious!
My stay here is limited by the rules of the reservation. So I spend two days admiring the coast and preparing my next navigation to Cape Verde which I hope is as beautiful but above all much freer. I thus prepare a week of meals, adjust the latest technical settings and set off for 800 nautical miles of crossing in the direction of the island of Sal at Cabo Verde!