Make a cool custom Hardwood cutting board, for little money.

Got a power saw? Got a orbital sander? Got 2 clamps? No on all three? Okay, how about a hand saw, some sandpaper, 2 flat square heavy objects, 15 to 20" in length? IE: Some cinder blocks or bricks , and willing to use good old fashioned elbow grease, and determination? Either way, this is a very simple, yet very cool project, that creates something useful, and if treated right, will last a lifetime. Here, I'm using pre-cut Red Oak, and pre-cut Mahogany, that are 2"x13/16th" thick, and 19" in length. You can make the cutting board as long and wide as you like. But, I felt that 14"x19" would be a nice size. This wood is from Home Depot, and it costs more than buying Hardwood, at a shop that only carries Hardwoods. But, an upside to this, if you don't have many, or any, woodworking tools, it's the best way to go. They're Hardwood is very good, and has already been planed and joined.There are many types of glue. But to make a cutting board, since it will be used to cut anything from meat, to veggies and fruits, you need to MAKE SURE you use an FDA Approved glue, that's safe for food. The best, in my opinion, is Titebond III. It is super strong, and is FDA approved. You can see how I laid down the glue. I suggest using a couple sheets of wax paper, that when binding, and clamping together, or binding and using the heavy Cinder Blocks, or Bricks and pushing them together in place of clamps, do it over the wax paper, that way, you don't glue your drying cutting board, to the garage floor, or table you're using.! I like to leave the boards clamped for about 45 minutes. ()After un-clamping, or pulling the Cinder Blocks, or Bricks away, I like to let it dry overnight. You can see in the clamped picture, that some of the boards are not flush, and you may also have some beveling, and high and low spots on the now glued, raw cutting board. This is where it becomes harder, if you don't have an orbital sander. A handheld or benchtop belt sander is best, but, this is where the sandpaper and elbow grease come in. You have to sand out the beveling, if any, the high and low spots, and the ends to be flush. You will need different grades of sandpaper. Start with 100, then 150, 220, and 325. Again, this part really sucks if you don't have at least an orbital sander. Maybe this is this is the time to invest in one. You'll find it has so many more uses than just sanding wood. You can get a nice little 5 inch Ryobi for about $40.00 or less. It's easy on the wallet, and it does a nice job. ![66585254.JPG] () You can see that there is a high gloss finish on mine. You can make it that way too if you like. But remember, is has to be an FDA Approved Sealer. I used Watco Butcher Block. About 5 coats in all, with wet sanding between each coat. This takes several days. Then, you have to leave it, once you've gotten the shine you want, alone for 3-5 days before using the board. A cheaper, and easier way, is to buy Howard Cutting Board Oil, and a bottle of Howard Cutting Board Conditioner. Use the Cutting Board Oil first, then the Cutting Board Conditioner, later on for preservation. These are very easy to apply, and is a great finish for your board.() I sent this board to my sister as a surprise gift, and she loves it! Funny little side note. When she got it, she called me and said she was actually, actively looking for a new one, as she had worn out the last one. She uses it everyday. Since we talk all the time, I ask her how it's holding up, and she said, "It's holding up great!" And believe me, if you knew my sister, she has no problem telling her little brother, (Me) exactly what she thinks, about anything. :)