To unmask Aceh's mysterious mask[揭开亚齐(Aceh)的神秘面纱]

Earthquake, tsunami, kidnapping, assassination, war, terrorist attacks, armed separatist movements...
If there is one such tragedy in the world, it must be Aceh.
Aceh's past is daunting, and the long term blockade has made aceh more mysterious.
But the wheel of time always rolling forward, today's world disasters are rapidly changing, the seas run dry and the rocks crumble could just be brief moment, we have learned to forget history and cold in the future, so treat aceh don't have to look around in aceh is a peace agreement signed in 2005, the moment has subsided, as aid inflows and reconstruction work smoothly, today's aceh has been completely free from the tsunami and war haze, so when I confirm aceh airport was officially offer landing visa and then bought a ticket without hesitation.
On the day of arrival, the visa officer's standard "hello", enthusiastic hotel Chinese owner, and a mandarin Chinese restaurant, the Chinese cabinet, even gave me the illusion that this is aceh?
Then all day, what I see is luxury dazzling mosques, well-preserved historical buildings, Singapore specifications of binhai avenue, tree-lined streets and quiet exotic public park, tsunami trauma has to follow all the time, let alone the horrors of war atmosphere, aceh, once the vicissitudes of life can only be from all over the city's monuments and to feel painstakingly preserved under the ruins.
地震、海啸、绑架、暗杀、战争、恐怖袭击、武装分离运动...如果说世界上真有一块如此悲剧之地，那就一定非亚齐(Aceh)莫属了。亚齐的往事不堪回首，让人望而却步，长期的封锁更是使得亚齐显得颇为神秘。但时间的车轮总是滚滚向前，如今的世界天灾不断瞬息万变，海枯石烂也可能只是短暂的瞬间，我们已经学会了淡忘历史和冷对将来，所以对待亚齐也不必瞻前顾后，围绕亚齐的是非在2005年和平协议签署的那一刻起就已经逐渐平息，随着大量救援物资的流入和重建工作的顺利进行，如今的亚齐已经完全从海啸和战争的阴霾中解脱出来，于是当我确认亚齐机场已经正式提供落地签证后就毫不犹豫地买了机票。到达的当天，签证官一句标准的“你好”、热情的旅店华人老板、说一口普通话的小饭店华人掌柜甚至让我产生了错觉，这里是亚齐吗？随后的一整天里，我见到的是奢华耀眼的清真寺、保存完好的历史建筑、新加坡规格的滨海大道、绿树成荫的街道和幽静洋气的市民公园，海啸的创伤已经无处可循，战争的恐怖氛围更是无从谈起，亚齐曾经的沧桑就只能从遍布城里的纪念碑和刻意保存下的遗迹中去感受了。

Aceh special geographical location, is located in the extreme north of the island of Sumatra, the entrance to the strait of malacca, has a wealth of oil and gas resources, the strategic position is very important, at the same time there is an active volcano earthquake zone, so whether cultural development or aggression war or natural disaster, aceh are borne the brunt of the wealth of the race, religious conflict and natural disaster constituted a history of heavy tangle of aceh, I also sums up, swaggering small, Aceh's something:
亚齐地理位置特殊，位于苏门答腊岛的最北端，马六甲海峡的入口，有着丰富的油气资源，战略位置极为重要，同时这里又是活跃的火山地震带，所以无论是文化发展还是战争侵略或是自然灾难，亚齐都是首当其冲，财富的争夺、宗教的纷争和自然的灾难构成了一部沉重纠结的亚齐史，我也大言不惭地小小总结了一下，亚齐那点事：

Aceh's story should speak of from the 13th century, it was crazy eastward propagation s Muslim, and aceh is became the earliest followers, times have changed, the only thing the land has not changed is the mosque every day from the patter, aceh are still widely used today in Arabic with a streets and temple shop, expresses the great respect to Allah.
亚齐的故事要从13世纪说起，当时正是穆斯林疯狂向东方传播的年代，而亚齐人当仁不让的成为了最早的追随者，时过境迁，这块土地上唯一未曾变过的就是清真寺内每天传出的诵经声，今日亚齐人仍普遍使用阿拉伯语标注着大街小巷和寺庙商店，表达着对阿拉的无尚敬意。

In the 16th century, Portugal controlled the strait of malacca, and the increasingly frequent transactions highlighted the status of the treaty ports of aceh as well as great wealth.
The next 300 years is a golden age in the development of aceh, the most glorious period not only dominated the other side of the state of kedah Malaysia and penang, even the whole Sumatra only aceh Sudan followed.
In this period, a wise man named Sultan Iskanda Muda was the name of Sultan Iskanda Muda, and his deeds were not mentioned. In short, it was the qin emperor han wu of aceh, and today's aceh airport was named after him.
进入16世纪，葡萄牙控制了马六甲海峡，日渐频繁的交易更加突出了亚齐通商口岸的地位同时也带来了巨大的财富。随后的300多年是亚齐发展的黄金年代，最辉煌的时期不但统治了对岸的马来西亚吉打州和槟城州，就连整个苏门答腊也唯亚齐苏丹马首是瞻。在这一时期出了一位英明神武的苏丹叫做Sultan Iskanda Muda，他的事迹就不多述了，总之就是亚齐的秦皇汉武，今天的亚齐机场就是以他命名。

By the 19th century, although the aceh still important position in trade, in 1820 the production of black pepper also account for half of the world, but encountered the same dilemma and the celestial empire, when western powers of ships sailed into the moment of the malacca strait, colonial anti-colonial, 100 years after the invasion has become the main melody of aggression, is not only in aceh, the whole world is the same.
In 1824, Britain and the Netherlands have signed a treaty called the Angla - Dutch, the British wulitou include Sumatra's aceh was ceded to the Dutch, want to know the British to aceh had no control over, like the British bastard, called treats when an irresponsible behavior has led to the endless disputes between China and India, seems to be an old British tradition of white open, look at Britain's prime minister, recently trying to copy the background's visit to China, really let a person plaint mix also sooner or later.
到了19世纪，虽然亚齐的贸易地位仍然重要，1820年时其黑胡椒的产量还占了世界的一半，但是却遭遇到了和天朝大国一样的窘境，当西方列强的军舰驶入马六甲海峡的那一刻起，殖民反殖民、侵略反侵略便成了后100年的主旋律，不单是亚齐，整个世界都是一样。1824年时，英国和荷兰签署了一个叫做Angla-Dutch的条约，英国人无厘头的把苏门答腊包括亚齐割让给荷兰人，要知道当时的英国对亚齐没有任何控制权，就像那个叫做麦克马的英国混蛋，当年一次不负责任的行为却导致了中印之间无休止的争端，看来英国人自古就有开白条的传统，看着英国首相最近低三下四抄了家底般的访华，真的让人感叹出来混迟早要还的。

Facing the British had such a gift, the Dutch readily accept that false feeling false took a few years later, in 1870 or so in aceh, also unveiled the 30 years of the war of aceh, among this involved too many imperialist powers of intrigue and aceh Sudan that Ann in order to get busy outside, in brief, and the modern history of China's struggle, is not one or two other words clearly.
By the early 20th century, aceh became Dutch colony, then briefly occupied by Japan, also with the spring breeze of the victory of world war ii, the Indonesian independence, but the story of aceh has just entered the high tide.
面对英国人的如此大礼，荷兰人欣然笑纳，假情假意的拖了几年后，于1870年左右杀进亚齐，同时也揭开了30年亚齐战争的序幕，这中间牵涉了太多帝国主义列强的勾心斗角和当时亚齐苏丹为求自保攘外安内的困局，总之就和中国纠结的近代史一样，不是一两句话说得清楚的。到了20世纪初，亚齐正式成为荷兰的殖民地，随后也被日本短暂的占领过，伴随着二战胜利的春风，印尼独立了，但是亚齐的故事却才刚刚进入高潮。

After independence of Jakarta government to divide into aceh in north Sumatra province, under the hornets, north Sue the Batak christians, and have quite a lot of people, both sides each other is not buy, then started a spent 10 years religious conflict, finally signed a peace agreement in 1963, aceh, also like her wish to become the autonomy of the SAR, but all this in the suharto on stage is only a temporary calm before the storm.
独立后的雅加达政府把亚齐划入北苏门答腊省，这下就捅马蜂窝了，北苏的Batak人信仰基督教，并且有着相当多的人口，双方互不买帐，于是开始了一场耗时10年之久宗教冲突，1963年终于签署了和平协议，亚齐也如偿所愿，成为了享有自治权的特区，但是这一切在苏哈托上台前只是暴风雨前的短暂平静。

After the suharto's not only the troops moved in Aceh, also allows foreign companies in oil and gas fields in Aceh, on the distribution of interests is said to have also treated the authorities in Aceh, caused some great discontent, troubled times, a great man moved in, the man called Hasan di Tiro, drag on a few people take a gun to kill a few foreign engineers, the well-known Aceh independence Movement GAM (Free Aceh Movement, GAM is Indonesian Gerakan Aceh Merdeka) was officially boarded the stage of history, and the Indian Ocean on the other side of the Tamil tigers LTTE summit.
But the separation of the two famous modern movement has different fate, tigers in 09 was completely destroyed, leaders also died in the war, even speaks not going to get to, compared with GAM is much more lucky, after this period of capacity to Syria.
苏哈托当政后不但把部队开进亚齐，还允许国外公司开采亚齐的油气田，据说在利益分配上也亏待了亚齐当局，引起了部分人极大的不满，乱世之中，一个大人物粉墨登场了，此人叫做Hasan di Tiro，拖上几个人带上几杆枪暗杀了几个国外工程师后，大名鼎鼎的亚齐独立运动GAM(Free Aceh Movement, GAM是印尼语Gerakan Aceh Merdeka)就正式登上了历史的舞台，和印度洋对岸的泰米尔猛虎组织LTTE遥相呼应。可是这两个现代著名的分离运动却命运迥异，猛虎在09年时被彻底消灭，领导人也死于战火，甚至连本命年都没熬到，相比之下GAM就幸运多了，这一段容后再叙。

Words Hasan di Tiro is a legend, and his grandfather in the fight against the Dutch invaded, heroic sacrifice, Hasan also inherited the ancestors of the descent, took part in the party during the period of school have taken to confrontation, in the '50 s or even revoked the Indonesian citizenship and exiled by the government.
In the 70 s, Hasan returned to his hometown, as a small contractor because of interests distribution, rise up GAM, directed at the central government in Jakarta, especially for Java, Hasan think period, in the fight against the Dutch invaders army cowardice, Java and heroic achinese far, so now there is no rule in aceh, Hasan simply declared independence in aceh in 76, because of the lack of mass base, was soon suharto, results Hasan home haven't once again was forced to two years in exile, then made a Swedish citizenship.
This run for 20 years, Hasan finally returned to her hometown in 1998, is the meet him aceh masses "welcome, I still remember at that time in the television cameras crowd around the scene of a full face of flattered when Hasan.
But Hasan has overwhelmed at this moment, at the beginning of this year the Indonesian government to grant Hasan soon after the citizenship, the legendary died, from rise up to the fugitive, finally falling leaves, is a perfect ending.
话说Hasan di Tiro也算是一个传奇人物，他的爷爷在抗击荷兰侵略时英勇牺牲，Hasan也继承了先人的血统，在求学期间就参加了政党搞起了对抗，在50年代的时候甚至被政府吊销了印尼国籍而流亡海外。70年代，Hasan以小承包商的身份回到自己的故乡，因为利益分配问题，揭竿而起成立GAM，矛头直指雅加达中央政府，更是针对爪哇族人，Hasan认为在抗击荷兰侵略者时期，爪哇军队表现懦弱，和英勇的亚齐人相差甚远，所以现在根本没有资格统治亚齐，76年Hasan干脆宣布亚齐独立，由于缺乏群众基础，很快就被苏哈托搞定，结果Hasan回乡还没两年就被迫再一次流亡海外，随后取得了瑞典国籍。这一跑就是20年，1998年时Hasan终于又回到自己的故乡，这次迎接他的是亚齐群众山呼海啸般的欢迎，我现在还记得当时电视镜头里群众围着满脸受宠若惊的Hasan时的景象。可惜这时的Hasan已经力不从心，在今年初印尼政府重新授予Hasan公民身份后没多久，这位传奇就与世长辞，从揭竿而起到亡命天涯，最后落叶归根，也算是个完美的结局了。

In GAM actually just started small, when an estimated hundred had, also can not get the support of the masses, so Hasan declared independence in aceh in 76 was more like fun, but also gave suharto, a better control in aceh, chase after Hasan, GAM in decades and there is no development of suharto, but from the 90 s, after the suharto GAM got more international support, by 2000 had reached about 50000 people.
So it seems that suharto represses the foreign clan and has one of his own, not only the Chinese, but also the biggest aszi.
其实在GAM刚创立的时候规模很小，估计就百来人，也得不到群众的支持，所以Hasan在76年宣布亚齐独立时更像是自娱自乐，同时也给了苏哈托一个控制亚齐更好的借口，赶走Hasan后，GAM在苏哈托统治的几十年间并没有什么发展，反倒是从苏哈托下台后的90年代起，GAM得到了更多的国际支持，到了2000年竟然发展到了约50,000人的武装。所以看来苏哈托镇压异族还真有他的一套，不但是华人，也是亚齐人最大的苦主。

Until 2004, the GAM and the government were fighting each other, with each other getting tangled up.
Two important event happened in 2004 became the turning point, a nation are treated relatively modest new Indonesian President susilo bambang yudhoyono, came to power, the other one is the extra tsunami make the gods cry, because the cause of tsunami earthquake epicenter in western coast of aceh, aceh became the worst hit area, so it is also the sudden disaster brought peace to aceh, in 2005, Jakarta government and aceh a peace deal was signed in Helsinki, Finland, given more autonomy in aceh, including legislative independence, independent right of investment promotion and capital introduction, and so on, at the same time also to aceh more oil profits, GAM formally surrendered the army also withdraw from aceh, aceh of new leadership is mostly about the backbone of the GAM, so the GAM in a short span of 30 years from a small party find guerrillas evolved into the region, and tells us that a dramatic story of a single spark can start a prairie fire.
一直到2004年之前，GAM和政府军相互混战，互有得失纠缠不清。2004年发生了两件大事成了转折点，一件是对待民族问题相对温和的印尼新总统苏西洛上台，另一件就是那场惊天地泣鬼神的大海啸了，因为引起海啸的地震震中就在亚齐西部海域，所以亚齐成为了受灾最重的地区，也正是这场突如其来的灾难给亚齐带来了和平的曙光，2005年时，雅加达政府和亚齐在芬兰的赫尔辛基签署了和平协议，赋予了亚齐更多的自主权，包括独立立法权，自主招商引资权等等，同时也分给亚齐更多开采石油获得的利润，GAM正式缴械，政府军也撤出亚齐，新一任的亚齐领导班子还是以GAM的骨干为主，就这样GAM在短短30年间从一只小小游击队发展成了名正言顺的地区政党，又向我们讲述了一个星星之火可以燎原的生动故事。

The years from 2005 to 2009, a large amount of relief supplies in aceh, anywhere in the world, make contributions to the reconstruction of aceh, among this, of course, there is no lack of political showman, human rights and corruption, according to world bank statistics used in aceh reconstruction funds more than us $58, but it is only 3.4 billion, during which the story of how many pockets is unclear, but at least have done a good work surface, now people's standard of living and conditions of aceh looking is higher than I have ever been to other cities in Indonesia.
By authorities in aceh is now secure, 09 when officially by strict islamic Sharia Law, there are some controversial among terms, such as banning gay, stoning for adultery after getting married, unmarried men and women have sex to accept lashes, etc., and has set up a Muslim police, specifically responsible for those illegal, even some foreigners in the training.
These things deeply affects the west so-called human rights campaigners: in aceh, the people's suffering as we traveled to raise money to rebuild for you, then why don't you a little bit of face are the job is done, the violation of human rights have become?
These foreigners will always want to impose their own values on others, do as you would be done by the Chinese people for thousands of years ago foreigner forever also could not fully understand the truth, and the celestial empire is always understand the essence of money makes the mare go, morals and values and how full weight?
从2005年到2009的几年间，大量的救援物资涌入亚齐，全世界都在为亚齐的重建贡献力量，这中间当然不乏政治做秀、人权争论和贪污腐败，据世界银行统计用于亚齐重建的资金达58多亿美元，但实际被用的只有34亿，其间有多少中饱私囊的故事就不得而知了，但至少表面工作做得还不错，现在亚齐老百姓的生活水平和条件貌似也高于我去过的印尼其他城市。目前亚齐当局也是逐渐坐稳坐大，09年的时候官方正式通过严格的回教法Sharia Law，中间有一些极具争议的条款，比如禁止同性恋、对婚后通奸实施石刑、未婚男女发生性关系要接受鞭刑等，并且设立了回教警察，专门负责抓那些违法的人，就连有些老外也中过招。这些事情深深的困扰着那些西方所谓的人权斗士们：在亚齐人民受难之际我们四处奔走为你们筹钱重建，事成之后为什么你们一点面子都不给，反而变本加厉的侵犯人权呢？这些老外永远都想把自己的价值观强加到别人身上，己所不欲勿施于人这个中国人几千年前就懂的道理洋人永远也参不透，而天朝大国却始终明白有钱能使鬼推磨的精髓，道德观和价值观又何足轻重呢？

After the history has been pulled out of the reality, you can calm down, without any prejudiced taste of today's aceh.
When it comes to travel scenic spot, Aceh's capital city of Banda Aceh (Banda Aceh) and its surrounding or read some, one of the most dazzling is, of course, for the great mosque Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman, although small, but the modelling is exquisite color is unique, is very eye-catching.
扯完了历史看清了现实后，就可以静下心来，不带任何偏见的品味如今的亚齐了。说到旅行景点，亚齐的首府城市班达亚齐(Banda Aceh)及其周边还是不乏看点的，其中最耀眼的当然就数那座大清真寺Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman，虽然规模不大，但造型精巧配色独特，很是吸引眼球。

Southward from the grand mosque, there is a few beautiful tree-lined trail, dotted with new square park around and strewn at random have the aceh style buildings, trail around some coffee, early in the morning to drink a cup of coffee after hearing the eat breakfast also quite comfortable.
In the urban south there is a very different historical architecture called Gunongan, is at the beginning of the 17th century aceh the famous sultan Iskandar Muda built for their own ethnic malays wife of bath and gardens, along with a royal palace to live, still in use.
从大清真寺往南，有几条很漂亮的林荫小道，四周点缀着新建的广场公园和错落有致的亚齐风格建筑，小道周围还有一些咖啡座，大清早听完经后去喝杯咖啡吃点早点也颇为惬意。在市区南端有一座很另类的历史建筑叫做Gunongan，是17世纪初亚齐那位著名的苏丹Iskandar Muda为自己的马来族妻子建造的浴池和花园，旁边还有一座皇室居住的宫殿，至今仍在使用。

The worst-hit in '04 tsunami the western coast of aceh today has taken on a new look, there's a brand new boulevard from downtown through the main pier Uleh Leh, around docks built long wave and a modern ferry, can go from here to the north Sumatra island Pulau Weh, LP has always been highly recommend this little-known island, and even called it the best dive resort, southeast Asia and the Indian Ocean had this time would you like to go after the island, but time is limited, I only went to the pier to find some ferry schedule and hotel information after go home, but it's really met several foreigners to aceh is to go to Pulau Weh diving, so said this thing is to travel from their live boring place to live with others, is really wonderful.
在04年海啸中受灾最严重的亚齐西部海岸地区如今也已焕然一新，从市区有一条崭新的大马路直通最主要的码头Uleh Leh，围绕码头建了长长的防波提和一座现代化的渡口，从这里可以去到苏门答腊最北边的小岛Pulau Weh，LP上一直以来都极力推荐这个名气不大的小岛，甚至把它称为东南亚乃至整个印度洋最好的潜水胜地，本来这次是想上岛去求证一下的，只是时间有限，我只去了码头找了一些轮渡时刻表和住宿信息后就打道回府了，不过还真遇到几个老外不远万里来到亚齐就是为了去Pulau Weh潜水，所以说旅行这东西就是从自己活腻的地方去到别人活腻的地方，真是对极了。

Because the reconstruction period have a lot of UN aid workers and contractors in aceh, so the accommodation here isn't cheap, hotels are mainly concentrated in aceh river near ChinaTown, one of the most common rooms are 100000 Rp, choose to much.
There is no shortage of aceh, especially in the evening, where there are many night markets and many Chinese restaurants in the hotel area near ChinaTown.
One is a Tower Coffee next to the mosque. There are a lot of special snacks in it, as long as one thousand rupiah is one, which is very affordable.
Have a steak, called SteakHouse to dine here mostly UN officials or to aid engineers and doctors, everyone will stick your business card in the store on the wall of the reserved for memorial, I carefully looked at it again didn't find the Chinese, and immediately put myself also pinned to the wall, although the inferior position, but in order to attract eyeballs, specially noted in Chinese: nanjing, China.
因为在重建时期有大量的联合国援助人员和各类承包商涌入亚齐，所以这里的住宿并不便宜，宾馆主要集中在亚齐河北岸的ChinaTown附近，一间最普通的房间都要100,000Rp，选择也不多。亚齐不乏贪嘴的地方，尤其是到了晚间，ChinaTown附近的宾馆区有很多夜市开张，也有不少华人的餐馆。个人比较推荐的有两处地方，一个是清真寺旁的Tower Coffee，里面有很多特色的小点心，只要1000印尼盾一个，很实惠。还有一家叫做SteakHouse的牛排店，来这里进餐的多半是联合国官员或者来援助的工程师和医生，大家会把自己的名片贴在店里的墙上留作纪念，我仔细察看了一遍竟然没发现中国人，于是立马把自己的也钉在墙上，虽然职位卑微，但为了吸引眼球，特地中文注明：中国南京。

One of the main gateways to aceh is Kuala Lumpur, one of which is Medan in north Sumatra.
Airasia has one flight every day non-stop flight to Kuala Lumpur Banda Aceh (Banda Aceh), Batavia, Sriwijaya, Lion and Garuda Indonesia several domestic airlines has direct flights to medan Aceh planes, if from Jakarta, most will be in medan transit.
Within the aceh region, there are two smaller airlines, Nusantara Buana Air and Susi airlines, which mainly fly to small towns on the west coast of aceh and inland mountains.
If you choose to cars, even if from banda aceh to the nearest big city medan, at least 10 hours, so have more relatives and aceh is not its neighbor, the island of Sumatra is across the strait of malacca in Malaysia.
Banda aceh is not big enough to go to most of the places on foot. If you want to go to a port several kilometers away, find a small three-wheel, about 10,000~15,000 Rp.
目前去亚齐的主要门户一处是吉隆坡，一处是北苏门答腊的棉兰(Medan)。亚航每天有一班飞机吉隆坡直飞班达亚齐(Banda Aceh)，Batavia,Sriwijaya,Lion和Garuda等几家印尼国内航空公司都有棉兰直飞亚齐的飞机，如果从雅加达出发，大部分飞机都会在棉兰中转一下。在亚齐地区内，还有两家小航空公司NBA(Nusantara Buana Air)和Susi airlines主要飞亚齐西海岸和内陆山区的一些小城。如果选择汽车，即使从班达亚齐去最近的大城市棉兰，至少也要10小时以上，所以与亚齐更有亲缘的并不是其苏门答腊岛上的邻居，反倒是马六甲海峡对岸的马来西亚。班达亚齐并不大，步行就可以去到大部分的地方，如果要去数公里之外的港口，找一辆小三轮就行，大约10,000~15,000 Rp。

In July this year, on the BBS of LP can someone from aceh airport landing visa information, but has failed to confirmed, until recently a website about aceh, tourism and investment confirmed after be born sign a message, I just rest assured to buy ticket for Kuala Lumpur fly aceh, but was questioned half a day before boarding the plane, the airport staff is not clear in aceh's latest visa policy.
The landing sign of aceh airport is very cautious, it needs to register for half a day and 10 finger fingerprints, although it takes time but is very formal and relaxed, there is no accidental harassment.
在今年7月份的时候，LP的论坛上有人传出亚齐机场可以落地签证的消息，但迟迟没能得到证实，直到最近一家关于亚齐旅游和投资的官方网站上确认了落地签的消息后，我才放心的买了吉隆坡飞亚齐的机票，但是在登机前还是被质疑了半天，机场的工作人员还不清楚亚齐最新的签证政策。亚齐机场的落地签很谨慎，需要登记半天还要10个手指指印，虽然费点时间但很正规和轻松，没什么意外的骚扰。

It's the first time I write an article in English. If there are any mistakes, please leave me a message in the comments section.
这是我第一次英文写文章，如有纰漏，请在评论区给我留言吧！

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