More and more Contraste
A kitchen built on dissonance is possible, and it is also good
The naming "Contraste" had already intrigued me because the kitchen is based either on the contrasts or on the assonances (or harmony), therefore a clear declaration of intent by the chef Matias Perdomo who, together with Simon Press and Thomas Piras, two years ago the Contraste restaurant opened , already a leading player in Milan. Can a kitchen built on dissonances possible? I asked myself the first time I set foot in this minimalist venue, discreet in the location, with an explosive chef, but who expertly did not act in the hall. As you enter you will see the statue "The secret" by Matteo Pugliese that comes out of the wall with his head and an arm to impose, with his finger on his lips, the silence and a keyhole that shows the kitchen, as if to mean the sense of discovery.
To tell the truth, I witnessed, in a certain sense, the growth of the restaurant: from the first experimental tastings until a few evenings ago. Well, growth is really remarkable. I wonder if Matias will continue to surprise in the coming years. The contrast in his dishes is increasingly evident, not only sought to amaze with opposing ingredients, but on temperatures, textures, etc. There are two dishes that have impressed me on this interpretation: the pasta-beans, foie gras, served with crispy dough to create an obvious contrast, as well as the veal sweetbread which, with fried lentils, provokes an antinomy. And yet the rabbit kidneys, smoked eel and sorbet in vinegar where sweet, sour and salty coexist: a sensorial kaleidoscope of effect.
Contrast is the futuristic box of the initial mistery box (I do not like these spectacular shapes for themselves) with the service of the antique basket (which I like very much) of the delicious rose cake with vanilla ice cream. Since the early times Matias has greatly reduced those morsels, which I categorized as "ex voto" or "santini". The few, however, I found them at the level: above all the brisè michetta pasta with mullet mortadella and horseradish mayonnaise (contrast). Among the dishes I also enjoyed lamb, potatoes and black cabbage and, as always, the must of Matias: spaghettone garlic, oil and chilli, calamaretti spillo with anchovy colatura.
