As we approached the border checkpoint we felt exhilarated - this was it, Montenegro! Will they let us in? Will we be put in quarantine? And what will that mean for us?
We didn't know, but we felt better having Edward with us, the local who was returning from his travels to Croatia because the government had spontaneously put out a call that all borders would be closed starting Monday the 16th of March. We also felt better because Edward had offered two face masks - not only would it show respect to the officers who would process us without us freaking them out too much, but it also had the curious side effect that the face cannot be seen largely, and that a lot more emphasis in communication is happening via eye contact.
As we were driving up to the window, we saw an officer wearing a face mask looking at our license plate with a puzzled face, then asking for our passports. Edward started talking in Montenegrin and was asked to get out of the car and to come to the counter.
They talked for a while with Edward pointing at us obviously explaining how he ended up in our van and what our situation was. It was like having a brilliant diplomat of sorts, we felt that Edward's presence with us was definitely a plus. He came back to our car window: "They said I get out my backpack from your car and can go. Then it's your turn and they will decide what to do with you."
We thanked him, he thanked us for the lift, got his backpack and walked over to the parking area presumably calling a taxi.
Then the dialogue started:
"Passports please."
Serious look on the face of the officer as we handed him our passports.
"Where are you going?"
"We are going to Montenegro"
"This IS Montenegro. Where are you going?"
My girl and I looked at each other trying to find a succinct answer that would clear up the confusion.
I said: "We are visiting Montenegro. We want to see the country and travel in nature."
He didn't seem to understand fully, maybe because considering the circumstances it was quite a weird statement to make.
"Albania?"
Simultaneously we both said "no" having to smile a bit again which he couldn't see.
"We are just visiting Montenegro and want to see Montenegro. Albania no."
I realized on the side how often I had simplified my English in the last weeks just to be better understood. Speaking bare-bones can really help situations like this.
"Montenegro is under lockdown and you cannot go inside country. All visitors are put in quarantine for 14 days."
I looked at him intently and asked slowly: "Ok, what does quarantine mean?"
He hesitated a moment, then got up from his chair to leave his post. I thought I had said something wrong, then realized he was getting help from other officers to help our communication along. When he returned I saw that he had taken off his mask and was more well-meaning towards us than I had first assumed.
He sat down again: "You have address in Montenegro? Hotel?"
I said: "No, this is our home." I made a slow elaborate gesture around me implementing the car we were traveling in. "We live in this van."
He hesitated again.
"Quarantine visitors have to sit in apartment for 14 days." He paused and looked to his colleagues on the gate ahead of us, then looked at us again and said with emphasis: "I advise you to turn around. This is not a good time to come to Montenegro."
We looked at each other to see whether our plan had changed any but we were as clear as we had been - we wanted in!
I said: "Can we just stay in this camping car somewhere in quarantine?"
He seemed surprised by this answer. These Germans just won't let it go, they really want in.
He got out up from his post again saying: "Wait."
So we waited, feeling a small window might just exist here somewhere between the lines for us to make it through.
Another border agent came stepping towards our car - this was becoming quite the scene. A few others were looking at us as well, and a guy with a face mask waltzed around our van eyeing it slightly.
The man who had come over to our passenger window was of muscular stature and had a real protector aura around him, not intimidating but somehow giant and insurmountable, a perfect border agent if you will.
He gestured me to roll down the window.
The words that came out of his mouth seemed full of intention , emphasis and importance as if to stress that what he had to say was important. He was talking fast and there was even a small hint of whisper to his voice, as if to advise us in a way that not all the other agents on the station would hear.
"Listen to me. Montenegro is in quarantine. You come from a country that has the virus and Montenegro does not have the virus here. I strongly recommend you turn around right now. We will close the borders tonight and noone can get out. Do you understand me?"
I was trying again: "Yes we understand. But we are here to see Montenegro, we feel great and we have not been in Germany for three weeks, We would rather strand in Montenegro than go back to Croatia."
He wasn't wearing a face mask so he obviously didn't deem the corona hype as threatening as it was officially made out to be. He looked at us with something that might have been impatience but it might also have been... respect for our persistence.
"You and your lady will be put in quarantine if you are allowed in. You cannot go out and will need a place to stay, an apartment somewhere. Do you understand me?" He looked at his colleagues processing other people at the counter, then looked back to us.
"Yes we understand that. And it would be worth it. We have come a long way to visit Montenegro and we have a bad feeling about turning around now that we are so close. We would rather sit out the quarantine and then travel around in Montenegro to see the country."
He looked proud for a moment and said: "Montenegro is my home. It is a beautiful country, we have the amazing nature and the mountains and sunshine, it is beautiful place. But the situation right now is difficult."
He paused.
"How long did you want to stay in Montenegro. Two weeks?"
We looked at each other, then looked back to the agent and said in unison:
"Two months!" and I added: "...maybe longer."
The agent looked as if we had hit him on the head with a fluffy pillow, he was visibly surprised. He hesitated a moment then smiled at us, saying in a low tone of voice: "Wait."
He walked away to the guard posts. We felt the potential opening getting bigger now. Maybe there was a chance! This statement about our prolonged travel plans in his country had obviously changed things.
We were thrilled and felt the excitement rise in us. Wow, maybe this was happening!
After a few minutes he came back to my window and said: "Listen, you must talk to the doctor before we can let you into quarantine. You see this parking space back there? Drive there, wait for the doctor. He will be here in 20 minutes or so."
He was still talking in that lower slightly secretive tone of voice, none of the emphasis and importance in it had subsided. He pulled out a small piece of paper and gave it to me.
"This is my number. If you need my help, call me! I must go to my post. Now. Drive to the parking space and wait. Do it now."
His body was beginning to walk off - he was obviously stretching his position here to do us a favor which we instantly recognized.
We thanked him with all our hearts for his help and put a smile on his face because we were so happy about what had just happened. He nodded at us intently, then walked off.
My woman turned the ignition and we were approaching a barrier. Another guard asked us: "Where are you going?"
I said: "We park there and wait for doctor."
He nodded as he understood and opened the barrier. We took the first spot available and turned off the car. Wow, we were now "officially" in Montenegro. Now it was all up to the doctor and the authorities. Would they let us in or make us turn around now that we were so close? We were thrilled! We had already gotten further today than most would have ever dared to imagine! Just a little further now and a bit of luck...
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