Franks Surfing Experience: 10 Foot Wave is Deadly?

As I cross the train tracks you can hear and feel the roaring waves curling and hitting the shore.  Instantly puts a smile on a surfers face without even being able to see the ocean water.  Normally on a regular day you will see anywhere's from a hundred surfers in the water and only about a third on the beach watching or enjoying the warm sun.  Today was the opposite, a third in the water and a hundred on the beach.  Kinda of creepy when you actually witness this for the first time.  I am no where near a Professional Surfer, but I have been surfing for over 20 years.  So 8-10 feet of water is still somewhat scary and deadly.  I prefer fun 4-6 foot waves which allows me to pull a few cut backs, catch some air, and if lucky get covered.  Lets get back to the 10 footer that actually caught me...

As I begin to get these butterflies in my stomach and eagerness to get into the water, I mentally have to prepare to be patient and remember it's not about Quantity, but a Quality wave that is imprinted into a surfers mind forever.  I prefer going in board shorts which allows me to surf in my natural style.  Wearing a warm wet suit is good during the winter or when the water is below 63 degrees.  Most of us have a normal routine, what to eat and drink in preparation to be at your full potential.  A banana, everything bagel, and coconut water or gatorade is mine.  

A fresh coat of wax on your board is a must so you don't slip off on any part of a wave, which will make or break you.  Stretching, twisting your feet into the sand while your body finds its limit, and jumping up and down with a little bit of running in the sand to get the blood and heart flowing.  Double checking my leash with a swift jerk to make sure it is not old and snaps off when you need it the most.  I rather it break on the beach than in the water and leave me scrambling after my board after wiping out.  Now first things first, eyeing where and when to approach the water.  Most surfers prefer to surf in a spot of their own or where it is not to crowded.  Being within 5 feet of another surfer can be stressful and a bit nervous for some.  I have been eyeing where and when to enter the water this whole time eating, drinking, stretching, waxing, and lastly my leash check.  It's TIME!

Pacing yourself mentally and physically as well as spiritually for me.  I systematically enter the water while the shore breaks hit the sand.  Immediately enter and time the next wave coming in order to duck dive underneath the instant crashing wave while feeling the nice cool sensation going through my hair and down through the rest of my body.  Heart is racing, must stay calm and steady and systematically as I paddle out through a few sets of waves crashing in front of me.  Not over extending my body and being self aware not to strain any muscles that may cramp up later.  All this while looking straight at the spot where I want to be while other surfers coming towards me or already around me from catching a previous wave.  The look on their faces either grunting, smiling, or fearful tells it all.  Some surfers in complete tunnel vision while others are very aware of the surroundings and look you square dead in the eye.  As I duck dive under my last wave before resting in the line up, a big sigh of relief comes across me knowing I can catch my breathe.  

Now normally it's not that dramatic, just paddle out and go over a few sets of waves.  But on days when it's overhead, you must be in a different frame of mind.    While I notice that the sets have an interval of about 5-7 minutes, this allows me time to rest and begin to study the crowd in the line up.  Have you ever seen a crowd of ducks swim away to the left and back to the right when they sense danger?  That's what us surfers were doing that day paddling away from getting swallowed up by an 8-10 foot wave.  Don't get me wrong, all of us that made it out to the line up past all the huge white wash earned to be here and most likely capable of dropping in on this 8-10 foot wave.  With around 30 surfers paddling left and right out of the way of the drop of this big wave, there's bound to have one or two surfers that will be caught in the drop or actually brave enough to paddle into it.  I have to admit, I was the one who got caught!  Nothing I can I do...bravely position my board underneath my feet and just charge it!

For me, every time I get these butterflies in my stomach which is a sense of nervousness.  It's like game time, the 4th quarter.  Game is tied with the last few seconds on the clock.  I have the winning ball and now I must give it all I can.  My face has the look of fear, but determination at this point.  Imagine not trying to paddle as hard as you can to catch the wave, but paddling as hard as you can not to get caught by the wave.  Seems effortless, but it wasn't.  The rush you get knowing you can't get off the wave or you will be run over with a ferocious powerful white wash which is uncontrollable. At least when standing on your board riding the wave you have the control to go up, down, left, or right.  Now back to the 10 foot deadly wave I like to call it while an 8 foot wave is scary to me.  Most surfers prefer to go back side on bigger sets, I prefer front side so I can see the wave forming in front of me.  I don't like to look back at a wave unless I am doing a cut back to re-position myself.  On bigger waves it is not likely for me to cut back or do any tricks or airs.  Just ride it through fast while trying to keep the board underneath your feet the whole time while skipping occasionally across the wave and looking for any other surfers that I am heading straight for.  The feeling and sound of that 10 footer goes by so fast that you don't really get a chance to enjoy it.  Just a relief that you made it back on shore without any accidents or wiping out.  You can call me chicken... but that was it for me that day.  Was very thankful I survived and rode my first 10 foot wave.  I caught a lot of waves in the 20 plus years of surfing and I don't remember them all.  But I can't forget that wave, I tell it all the time.  

I hope you enjoyed my true surfing experience.

As always. Thank you for your time.

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Steem on,

Frank