Cycling around the world - Kurdistan - Iraq part 3

In the last post from Iraq you can find out more about the cyclists in Kurdistan and how much they offered me for my bike. I also looked at an old prison and once again enjoyed the hospitality and nature...

About an offer, I refuse
In Erbil, among other things, I met other touring cyclists from Kurdistan who had already cycled through Turkey to Kurdistan and were honored for it. With interesting conversations and many questions on your part, the evening quickly comes to an end. Otherwise, Erbil has an old citadel in the city center that dates back up to 6000 years. The city itself is rather unimpressive in terms of tourism.

To say goodbye, I drive past on bicycle street. One bike shop follows the next. All kinds of second-hand bikes of all brands are traded here. Incidentally, I also get an offer for my bike here: 120 dollars seems a bit too little to me, so I politely decline. Out of the city I still have to struggle with the heavy traffic. After that it gets less. Nevertheless, I still take a few selfies today and am offered a number of gifts. From water to strawberries even to money, there is a lot. When I arrive in Ranya in the evening, I am even invited to a dinner with reference to my notoriety

Erbil

steep and steeper
From Ranya it goes along the Dukan Lake. The beginning can be completed well. But then I have to take the path over the mountain to reach the place of the same name, Dukan. The pass turns out to be a decent obstacle. The incline percentages regularly climb up to 20%. Added to this is the brutal heat today. The vending machine with fresh, cold water at a military checkpoint cools you down. I don’t manage to drink it empty, but I absorb some water again. And a nice trucker provides a welcome refreshment with a cool can of energy drink. But the great view of the lake and the surrounding landscape quickly makes you forget the effort.

Through the beautiful Kurdistan

Then, on the steep descent, I really push my brakes to the limit. In Dukan I find a nice place to camp between several villas. Shortly thereafter, I discover the surveillance camera and it doesn’t take long for the security service and the military to stop by. After a short chat and a check of my personal details, however, they have nothing against my place.

the red prison
After the man from the security service helps me to put things together in the morning, I make my way to Sulaymaniyah. From the nearby mountain you have a great view of the city, which has a lot to offer. The most interesting, but also the most depressing, is the Amna Suraka (Red Prison) Museum. During Saddam Hussein’s rule, it was the headquarters of his secret service and also a notorious prison. Many Kurdish prisoners had to stay here in a small space and were tortured. In addition, an exhibition commemorates those who died in the struggle for Kurdistan’s independence. Not easy fare…

In Sulaymaniyah, in addition to sightseeing, I also manage to pick up my visa for Iran. And I don’t miss a visit from the local bicycle group either. The associated bike shop is definitely interesting. There is a wildly mixed heap of spare parts. I’m not sure what will ever be needed.

Farewell from Kurdistan
After three days I’m on my way to complete my last kilometers in Kurdistan. The last town is Halabja. There is a large memorial in the village to commemorate a gas attack during the Iran-Iraq war. Today it is a memorial to peace. There is also great nature to be discovered around the city. The next day I make my way to the Ahmad Awa waterfall. After overcoming the altitude difference, I can enjoy the view of the waterfall. I can also enjoy the kilometers on my bike. After having problems with my ball bearing again, I managed to fix the bike. At a small car repair shop, I lend a hand together with the mechanics and almost completely disassemble my bike into its individual parts. On the way back from the waterfall I am again asked for a selfie.

Ahmad Awa Waterfall

Monument in Halabja

Monument in Halabja

Just as I’m leaving town, the car overtakes me again and waves me back into town to invite me to dinner. Together we spend a cozy evening together.

Then the next morning I make my way to the Iraqi-Iranian border. This gives me a foretaste of traffic in Iran. Again and again I get overtaken by a big truck. Not only once does it get tight. I reach Penjwin in the early evening. I would like to spend my last evening in Kurdistan in the border town. After I’ve been invited to some tea again, I want to spend the night in a mosque. But again it doesn’t come to that. I ask Soran if I can sleep there, but he invites me to his house. So I can rest again and start my way to Iran the next day…