Miss you Turkmenistan

I feel a sense of pride to know that I was one of the few Americans who had the opportunity to live and work in Turkmenistan.  Aside from the low level surveillance conducted from a U.S. donated Crown Victoria (the only one in the country) and occasion annoyances like the entire country running out of milk and chicken at the grocery stores, Turkmenistan remains one of my favorite expat haunts.

 Streets of Turkmenistan

Getting around the Capital, Ashgabat, is another matter all together.  Unless you’re a diplomat or have status, the chances of an expat purchasing a private vehicle and driving are slim to none.  So, typical to many post Soviet countries – getting around entailed standing on the side of road and waving down cars.

I was working for an international organization managing educational exchange programs and left work late on my way to an official function hosted by my office with attendance by the U.S. Ambassador and certain Turkmen government officials confirmed.  I left my office and stood on the street and held out my hand, palm down, to try and hitch a ride with a passing car.  My lucky day a clean, new BMW pulled over and offered me a lift.  Wait, what?

I had been informed the previous week that a new fleet of blue BMW’s had arrived and it dawned on me that this was one of those vehicles.  The President, Turkmenbashi, had purchased the vehicles for government officials to travel on official business.  It seems the driver was making a couple bucks on the side offering rides when not working.

Tried as might, the driver knew I was a foreigner, and showing the famous Turkmen courtesy decided to drive me right up to the front door of the event.  Standing in the front of building was the U.S. Ambassador exchanging cool pleasantries with some mid-level Ministry of Education officials when I pulled up in the official Turkmen government BMW.  They paused in conversation and I could feel they were wondering if another Ministry person, perhaps someone of diplomatic importance, had arrived.

 women are beauties there

           

I exited the vehicle and made my way past the group with a sheepish smile and small bow.  The Ambassador never said anything about the ride, but I often wonder what went through her mind that day.