The TAI AHOM People and MUGA Culture
The Tai Ahoms, an offshoot of the Tai or Shan race of the Mongoloid group came to assam in the early part of the 13th Century .The Tai Ahoms are the only Mongoloid race, whose arrival in assam is historically recorded from the time of their coming in 1228 A.D .The Tai Ahoms established their settlement in Assam and the later stage they developed into a kingdom .In the course of time they became very powerful and they recorded their own activities from the beginning to the end of their reign in the chronicles called Buranjis . The MUGA culture of Assam was flourished and progressed during their period .We may say that sericulture was an integral part of their culture .So Ahom regime (1228-1828) can be considered as the golden period for muga culture of Assam .
The Tai Ahoms, an offshoot of the Tai or Shan race of the Mongoloid group came to assam in the early part of the 13th Century .The Tai Ahoms are the only Mongoloid race, whose arrival in assam is historically recorded from the time of their coming in 1228 A.D .The Tai Ahoms established their settlement in Assam and the later stage they developed into a kingdom .In the course of time they became very powerful and they recorded their own activities from the beginning to the end of their reign in the chronicles called Buranjis . The MUGA culture of Assam was flourished and progressed during their period .We may say that sericulture was an integral part of their culture .So Ahom regime (1228-1828) can be considered as the golden period for muga culture of Assam .
During the supremacy of Ahom Dynasty Ahom kings patronized Muga Culture by favouring muga silk for royal robes.The garments made of muga were the prerogative for the Noblemen. The varities of Muga are used silks at that time .Among these, the garments of males are – Phachau or Pag, Chapkon,Kinkhwab ,Cheleng, Khaniia, Churiaor Dhoti etc. and the female Garments are Mekhela ,Riha , Blouse (Anga Chula) etc.I some specific occasions and with due permission from the Ahom kings,they could also wear muga fabrics..
During the supremacy of Ahom Dynasty Ahom kings patronized Muga Culture by favouring muga silk for royal robes.The garments made of muga were the prerogative for the Noblemen. The varities of Muga are used silks at that time .Among these, the garments of males are – Phachau or Pag, Chapkon,Kinkhwab ,Cheleng, Khaniia, Churiaor Dhoti etc. and the female Garments are Mekhela ,Riha , Blouse (Anga Chula) etc.I some specific occasions and with due permission from the Ahom kings,they could also wear muga fabrics.
There were many looms under the supervision of Royal house for producing special types of silk fabrics for the use of members at the royal family . These looms are called Rajagharia looms These royal were not sufficient enough to fulfill the requirements of the Royal family, therefor, skilled weavers from outside the palace were appreciated for supplying good quality silk fabrics to the Royal house .
There were many looms under the supervision of Royal house for producing special types of silk fabrics for the use of members at the royal family . These looms are called Rajagharia looms These royal were not sufficient enough to fulfill the requirements of the Royal family, therefor, skilled weavers from outside the palace were appreciated for supplying good quality silk fabrics to the Royal house .
The Ahom kings accepted some of the “Sumonis (Muga Plantation Area) as ‘Rajgharia Sumonis’ for rearing silkworm exclusively for the Royal looms and created separate administrative machinery to look after the silkworm feed plants, silkworm rearing,reeling of silk yarn and weaving of silk fabrics.
It is learnt from the historical record that ‘Kotani’- or ‘Jogi’ a class of people was famous the Ahom period for spinning and weaving.It was also found that weavers known as ‘Tanti’s and ‘Jhola’s (Mohammedan )weavers who migrated from other places of India had started weaving silk fabrics in Assam during the region of ‘Jayadhawaja Singha’(1648-1663).
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The AHom Kings also encouraged the sale of Muga yarns & fabrics of Assam at Various markets located in Assam be proper and border area of Assam, these are – Bengal, Bhutan and Neighboring hill districts of ‘khasi ‘& ‘Garo’. According to captain Welsh report on Assam in 1794,the British Govt. concluded a treaty for trade and commerce with king Gaurinath Singha (1780-1795) in 1793, which envisaged the expansion of trade and commerce between Assam and Bengal .
The Spining and weaving had become indispensible profession of Assamese society for Royal encouragement of Tai Ahom people of Assam. There were one loom for every two women and in Joint families there were three bto four looms .In this context we can say that no women were excused unless she had attained proficiency in spinning and weaving . On the other hand,a girl having no knowledge of weaving was called ‘Thupuri’ and She is ‘Misfit for marriage .
After the discussion of this almost all Tai Ahom women along with the other communities of Assamese society during the Ahom Period were skilled in hand spinning of muga yarns, weaving and dying of silk fabric also.
