I'm quite sure only good quality glass can alleviate aberration issues.
But to sort of fix them in post you might want to check out the Color zones module on Darktable, and turn down the saturation, or even adjust the hue of the reds (or cyan when that's a problem), using a drawn mask over the affected area.
The real problem with aberration often is, that it's both wavelenths that are causing problems, thus you can't just adjust only one of them. And adjusting both can affect other colours of the photo too.
If you have a photo that's otherwise good, but aberrations are making it horrible, you can also try turning the whole photo into black and white, and completely avoid the problem of colour fringing.
That's right. But you'd still have increased blur.
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No more blur than you would normally get with that lens. The aberration is the blur. :)
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So, if you have monochromatic light, there will be no blur? Chromatic aberration results from different wavelengths of light bending differently at the surface of the glass, no? Turning color saturation to zero in post processing doesn't change what the sensor has recorded. When you do that, what's left of the chromatic aberration doesn't look as bad. If you had used a better lens, your camera sensor would've recorded a less blurry image.
Or do you mean that blur specific to a lens is always chromatic aberration and nothing else?
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Basically yes, but we can't have that.
True.
Also true. That's also a problem in "pre-processing", as in filters. A filter can't know which part of the image is going to cause a problem, so it would have to apply to the whole image, thus wrongly correcting parts that don't need correcting.
Yes, definitely! It's the glass in front of the camera, that needs to direct all the wavelengths correctly to the sensor. The only problem is, even good quality glass can miss it, if the contrast of the light and dark is too deep. Especially when the light clearly overpowers the shadow, like in an over-exposed photo, one that's taken in a direct sunlight. Take the same shot on a cloudy day and you'll get completely different results.
I have seen such aberration even on my Sigma Art. Granted it's lot less pervasive than it's on my other lenses. But it's still there.
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My point was that using a filter you can make shadows less dark relative to highlights, which could alleviate the problem somewhat. Right?
There are various types of monochromatic aberrations, too.
See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_aberration#Monochromatic_aberrations
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Sounds like an impossible feat. ;)
Yes, but you'd have the same aberration on a film camera using monochrome film. It just becomes a blur.
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You can't make black any blacker by filtering light coming from it, can you? But you can make highlights less bright despite that. :)
There is one thing I did not understand and that is why chromatic aberrations are worse in bright daylight than when there is less light. That was what you were saying, right? And it certainly seems the case here. Why would that be?
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Well you can under-expose the shadows with an ND filter at the same time while de-brightening highlights, if that's what you meant. But you will get an image where you will end up needing to push the exposure back up again, while degrading the quality in the process.
It's just that the extreme contrast between light and shadow in direct sunlight and worse, light reflecting from water, glass or white surfaces is accentuating the aberrations. The objectives have plenty of partly reflective surfaces inside to make that light behave like being projected through a prism.
With an overcast lighting there are generally no direct sources of light (as in reflections from other surfaces), or they are much less pronounced. The lens doesn't end up producing that prism like effect, and thus much less visible aberration.
With that I mean, that while the aberration is still there, it is not anywhere near as disturbingly bad, as in our example, where we were shooting at waves in direct sunlight.
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