Resilience calls for disaster prepardness.

This post appeared originally on ResilientMan.com

Here are some recommendations for basic physical resilience. Although these might sound like a doomsday kit. Consider that most likely you will not need them all at once. You might have a power cut one day, and the need to open your first aid kit a few weeks later. These generic preparations for any disaster or events that need your physical resilience. Consider expanding this kit in areas where you might need more than others. Example, if you live in a desert than you might want to have more preparations focused on water.The following should be considered in your preparations; I highly recommend that EACH PERSON should have a minimum of three methods to produce each item listed below, again, the importance of having redundancy (just remember, don’t focus on what you want – focus on what you need):

(1) Fire, (2) Water, (3) Food, (4) Medical/Hygiene, (5) Tools, (6) Shelter, (7) Protection, (8) Team-Concept; (9) Electronics (Commo/Lighting)

Fire

Fires are obviously used for cooking food, boiling water, and provide light; but a fire provides a psychological well-being, and provides a good way to protect you from (both two-legged and four-legged) predators and scavengers. How many ways do you know to start a fire? (If are not sure, ask a Boy Scout!)

Humans have been successfully “rubbing two sticks together” for hundreds of thousands of years to make fires; this method is still in use today (i.e. bow-drills), but even those who are skilled in this technique will tell you that it can take an hour or so to produce an ember (the basis of a fire).

• Butane lighters are good choices, but lighters can fail when they get wet and in high winds (windproof lighters available).

• Wooden matches are another good choice, but again matches can fail when wet and in high winds (windproof and water resistant matches available, or you can dip matches in paraffin wax to waterproof them – when ready to light the match, just scrap off the wax).

• Magnesium fire starters (also known as fire steels) are another great tool to have; there are many different models and designs out there, but they work well.

• BlastMatch fire starters, from Ultimate Survival Technologies

• Fire pistons are your most expensive option, but I have one and am very impressed with it.

FYI: There are some really informative videos on the use of fire pistons, magnesium fire starters and fire steels in Youtube.com; check them out.

• Cotton balls smeared with petroleum jelly (stored in waterproof containers) work great for starting a fire with just a spark. The cotton burns quickly, but the petroleum jelly burns for minutes.

• Shredded paper works great to start a fire. You do shred all of your documents containing Personally Identifiable Information - PII - anyway, right?

• The cotton within feminine-hygiene products can also be used for starting a fire with just a spark (they also work great for wound dressing too).

• The chain from a chain saw is great for cutting firewood (forget the thin wire-saws as they are cheap and break easily)

WATER and WATER PURIFICATION

· Humans need approximately 1-gallon of drinking water per adult/per day for drinking and cooking. Again, after 3-days without water, your body will begin to die. But water weighs about 8-pounds per gallon, so do you have a plan to you haul that much?

· Purifying water is not that complicated; filtering the “big stuff”, i.e. sediment, leaves, twigs, etc. is simple; but the organisms that can really make you sick – or even kill you – is a bit more complicated, but not hard to accomplish.

· Unfortunately, none of the water in our rivers/streams, lakes/ponds can be trusted to be pure. And if the water is standing (i.e. ditch, lake/pond) it is even more important that you filter it. Just remember, if you see any dead animals and/or chemical containers in or right next to the water – DON’T DRINK IT! Likewise, most animals crap and/or piss in or near the water, so keep that in mind too.

· Filtering water starts by removing the “big stuff” first, then grains of sands/dirt, then the small “critters” that you cannot see. Commercially-made filters used for camping and backpacking work very well, and come in varying sizes, filtering capacities, and price range. Likewise, Zero Water.com and Pur Water.com, etc. filtration systems work as advertised; you can also make filtration systems using the same filters that you buy for your home water filters (just use your imagination).

To make an improvised water filter, you will need:

· Two (clean) +1-gallon buckets;

· Smaller containers (i.e. 1 to 2-liter bottles);

· Clean cotton cloth (handkerchief, t-shirt, towel, tablecloth, etc.), coffee filters; and

· A Funnel that will fit into your 1 to 2-liter bottle(s)

· For standing water, disperse scum, leaves, twigs, etc. from the top layer of the water; then scoop this top layer of water into one of the buckets (with moving water, most of this debris should not be a factor).

· Cover the lid of the second bucket with your cloth and pour the water through it into the second bucket.

· From this second bucket, pour the water through the funnel into your bottle(s).

· Plain (Unscented and Non-Perfumed) bleach will kill most micro-organisms; use at least one tablespoon per gallon of pre-filtered water (to simplify this – use one full cap per gallon).

· Metal buckets/bottles are great because these containers can be used to boil the water

· Bring the water to a rolling-boil for at least 3-minutes to kill most micro-organisms (another reason for having fire!)

FYI:

· Did you know that stored water goes “bad”? If left for more than a year, the oxygen and hydrogen molecules (H20) separate and the water will taste flat; it is still good to drink, but will not taste “right”. Stirring and pouring the water from one container to another will regenerate the oxygen, making it taste alright.

· Ultra-violet rays from the sun can also pasteurize water, takes several hours - and is affective for biological-contaminants. Fill a CLEAR 2-bottle with water, re-close the cap; and then place the container so that it is exposed to full sunlight for as long as possible

· Did you know that your hot water heater contains 30-50 gallons of drinkable water!

· Water is also available in small foil pouches for purchasing

· DO NOT DRINK SALT WATER!! However, salt water can be made drinkable through distillation (which is a very simple process) and reverse-osmosis

FOOD

· Food products for camping (dehydrated and freeze-dried) and MREs are great sources. When selecting foods for long-term storage, get what you normally eat, and just buy extra quantities.

· Buying “comfort” foods is an option, but should not be a priority. Sour hard candy will help you avoid thirst and peppermint helps your upset stomach.

· Remember that you will need water to cook some foods, but more importantly your body will need water for digestion, especially for foods high in protein.

· Expiration dates are mandated to listed for liability purposes; personally I will extend this date by 6-months; and if the item is canned, probably longer. However, if the can is swollen, or the integrity of the can has been compromised – DO NOT EAT IT!

· Do you have multiple ways of cooking? Natural gas utilities are usually not disrupted in an electrical-down scenario, but what if you do not have natural gas? Do you have a fireplace? What about a barbeque pit? Do you have an adequate fuel supply? Is it specifically designed to run on natural gas only, will it work with wood?

· Are game animals and fish prevalent in your area? Do you know how to hunt, fish, trap?

· Coleman (Coleman.com/Home) makes a neat dual-fuel stove (as well as a lantern) that will operate with both Coleman “white gas” fuel AND unleaded gasoline.

"· Even though dog and cat food is not labelled for human consumption, in worst-case scenario it can be eaten. (see the FDA.gov/FDA Regulation of Pet Food website)

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates that can of cat food, bag of dog food, or box of dog treats or snacks in your pantry. The FDA’s regulation of pet food is similar to that for other animal foods. The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FFDCA) requires that all animal foods, like human foods, be safe to eat, produced under sanitary conditions, contain no harmful substances, and be truthfully labelled. In addition, canned pet foods must be processed in conformance with the low acid canned food regulations to ensure the pet food is free of viable microorganisms, see Title 21 Code of Federal Regulations, Part 113 (21 CFR 113)."

· I have been asked how I preserve dried rice, noodles, beans, etc. for long-term storage (+20-years). It is not very complicated; and to ensure that the food will last it needs to be kept out of the sun, and sealed to prevent air (microbes), insects and moisture from entering.

· You will need a strong-sided storage container (i.e. bucket), Mylar bags (appropriate-sized), oxygen absorbers (hand warmers!) and a heat iron to seal the bag (you can find all of these items on the internet, via www.ebay.com, www.Amazon.com, etc.)

Medical/Hygiene

· First aid kits, comprehensive medical kits and keeping proper hygiene are both major considerations in any disaster scenario; especially when professional medical services are not readily available.

· Basic first aid kits are good to have packed for EVERY PERSON, with at least one comprehensive kit readily available. If you have not already received first aid training, I highly recommend that all members in your family/group be trained.

· Your skin is your body’s first line of defense; but injuries to the skin are the most common form of injury, with infection being the most common debilitating and deadly ailment, so it is imperative that EVERONE have and use gloves when working with sharp tools and/or around debris.

· If you or anyone in your family/group has special needs, this MUST be accounted for. Most diabetic medications need refrigerated and if the electricity is unavailable, will only last for a few days. Dry ice will help keep items cool for several days, just make sure that it is handled with care (i.e. skin burns) and that anything placed next to the dry ice is also protected from burns. FYI: Feminine-hygiene products can also be used for dressing wounds

· Hydrogen Peroxide (liquid and wipes) is great for cleansing wounds, etc. Just look up hydrogen peroxide on the internet to find all of the uses for it!

· Liquid hand sanitizing soap is another item that everyone should have in their kits, with a large supply available.

· AND Don’t forget the toilet paper!!!!!!!

TOOLS

· For millions of years, humans have made and used tools, and one of the earliest tools made was a knife/cutting instrument, using flint-knapping as a method of producing sharp instruments from rock. Modern man has the “advantage” of technology and modern manufacturing process to make tools.

· For survival purposes, I highly recommend that everyone have at least three tools for cutting. But remember, the knife used for skinning animals will not be appropriate for cutting large pieces of wood.

· A 16” machete/bolo is a great tool to have, as well as hatchets and axes, shovels and saws (i.e. small bow saw and the SaberCut Pocket Chain Saw (essentially a chain saw blade with nylon handles!).

· I also recommend that you look at items that can be used for multiple purposes (i.e. Gerber/Leatherman Multi-Tools); military entrenching tools, etc.

· No matter what you decide to have, please make sure that you know how to SAFELY use them!

SHELTER

Your home, structures, vehicles, etc. are obvious choices; but shelters come in many forms, and I will start this off by stating that your first level of shelter is your clothing:

· Inclement-weather, sturdy (i.e. work) clothing, gloves and shoes, as well as head gear, etc.

· Always have multiple sets of each to rotate them and keeping clean/dry.

· When considering whether or not to stay home (i.e. “bugging-in”) or leaving (i.e. “bugging-out”) is a major consideration – if you have a choice. Tents, tarps as lean-tos, etc. are viable options; just remember that you need to have multiple ways to make shelters (again, redundancy).

· While selecting a portable shelter, remember that you may need to move; since shelters can be heavy and/or bulky, consider what your primary and secondary mode(s) of transportation.

· Personally, I have a two-person and a four-person tent packed (a carry-over from my extensive backpacking and Scouting days). I also have numerous camo 8’ X 10’ and 10’ X 12’ tarps, along with #550 cord/ropes, telescoping aluminium poles, and stakes, to use as shelters for myself and to cover my gear.

FYI: Tarps can also be used to gather rain water and diverted into containers!

PROTECTION

· Protecting your group, as well as your food and supplies from four-legged AND two-legged scavengers and predators should always be thought of and prepared for, especially when outdoors!

· Cooking only the amount of food needed; then storing the remaining food in sealed containers up and out of the way; as well as keeping the cooking and food storage area clean will help to keep unwanted “guests” away. Also, consider netting to cover the food prep and cooking areas.

· Blow-guns, slingshots, as well as firearms are all well-known tools for both hunting and protecting yourself, your group as well as your supplies. Just make sure that you are well-trained and be safe!

· Another form of protection is the use of multiple people, allied together forming a team for mutual support (see additional information below)

TEAM CONCEPT

There is safety in numbers, so as part of your team selection, consider what skills you will need to have within the team/group, such as:

· Food Prep/Cooking; Hunting/Gathering (Hunting/Fishing/Trapping and Livestock/Gardening); Washing & repairing/mending; Medical/Dental; Security/Defense

Another consideration is reconstruction/rebuilding skills:

· Electrical; Plumbing; Wood construction; Welding; Heavy machinery skills;

ELECTRONICS: Alternative Power Sources, Communications (Commo) and Lighting

· Communicating with “the outside world” as well as communicating with family, neighbours and group members is also vital.

· Small two-way portable radios are limited in range but are great choices – especially for communicating between outposts and the site; CB radios typically have a longer range; and Amateur Radios (HAM) with the longest range. Ham radios are also used by local and federal governments, and many civilians volunteer their services during disasters.

· Another radio that everyone should have is NOAA weather alert radios; these are obviously important for receiving critical updates. And I personally prefer radios with Weather alarms, AM/FM and Shortwave frequencies, and a built-in light – that are both battery-operated AND hand-crank powered (the model I have can also charge my cellphone too!).

· The use of signal mirrors, strobe lights, as well as SOS (S: • • • O: — — — S: • • •) are common to both the military and professional rescue teams.

· Other forms of communication that do not require electricity include whistles (you won’t have to worry about losing your voice screaming if you use a whistle), signaling mirrors, fires, signal signs on the ground, etc. Three lines, three crosses, three X’s, three separate fires (in a row), etc. are commonly-recognized “need help” signals.

· When there is no electricity, lighting becomes critical at night (not only so you can find your way around and locate your stuff at night, but also for security, psychological well-being); that is one of the reasons to have the ability to make fire is so important.

A note on your battery-operated supplies:

· Try to get as many of your items to use the same type of common batteries; i.e. AA, C, D and C123.

· Again, hand-cranked powered items like flashlights and radios are very handy during a long-term power outage.