The rich part of this piece is Emily Oster is equivocating on raw milk amidst an avian flu outbreak in dairy cows.
The elephant in the room is RFK and his ilk that make up conspiracy theories about everything. "Nuance" is used by those individuals to drive a bulldozer right on through. And it ends up undermining things like measles vaccination which Oster thinks she can save by legitimatizing anti-science beliefs elsewhere.