Today I had one of the experiences that every surfer dreads - the leash fail. The leash is the nylon cord that connects the surfboard to the surfer. They have two weak points - the small string that attaches the leas to the board, and the swivel that is at the same point. Today I was trying out a brand new board - a single fin that was hand shaped for me in Phuket by Tony my board shaper. I didn't pay very close attention to the keeper - the small bit of string that is the leash connector. Anyway I took a pretty nice wipeout (often for me) and when I surfaced I realized I had no board. Meanwhile my board was enjoy its new found freedom and was heading towards the rocky shore as fast as it could, hellbent on beaching itself and doing as much damage as possible.
source: https://www.surfinghandbook.com/surf-gear/surfboard-leashes/
I was far fro shore and on a distant reef break that is about 300 metres from the beach. Lots of water moving and pretty decent swell hitting the reef. Important thing to to remember in this situation - think, breathe, act. Step one was to let my buddy know what had happened. Being without a board out there in heavy surf on a distant reef break can quickly become a serious issue if you are not in control of the situation. I called to my bro and he paddled over. I was trapped on the inside so he stayed behind the break keeping an eye on me. I allowed myself to wash in towards shore to see if I could spot the board. the water was very turbulent and that means you have no buoyancy. it was hard work staying afloat but eventually I reached an area of reef that I could stand up on.
My run away board had already reached the shore and some kids had retrieved it and were holding it aloft for me to see. I signaled to them to keep it there on the beach and then I headed back in to the breaking waves to get off the shallow reef. Plan was now to swim to shore - about 300m away thru strong ocean currents and breaking waves. My bro paddled next to me on the board in case I got in trouble but it was all good. I swam a mixture of breast stroke and freestyle, conserving energy. Having my buddy next to me was comforting but I didn't want to rest on his board. It's important that you can make it out of these situations without help.
Exiting at the beach was tricky as here the waves are breaking directly on to the shore and was pretty solid day. I made it in without any mishaps and then made the long walk back to the top of the point where the kids were waiting for me with my slightly damaged board. End of the day no real damage.I survived to surf another day and damage to the board is only cosmetic which I can fix in Bali next week.
I'm Jobiker and I busted my leash today. Peace!