(Shared from Surfline)
It’s human nature to rebel, to set fire to social norms. From music (the vinyl revival versus streaming services), to photography (film cameras in opposition to the ubiquitous X-Pro II Instagram filter), to the art of surfboard shaping — it’s become trendy to revolt against societal advancements, and embrace the simpler times of yesteryear.
With regards to surfing, there’s been a growing attraction to DIY, hand-shaped craftsmanship as opposed to cookie-cutter, mass-production surfboards. And thanks to guys like Ryan Burch and Tyler Warren, handcrafted surfboards are, once again, à la mode. So, for fear of looking like an antiquated 20-something-year-old (an old fart by today’s standards), I decided to take a stab at shaping my own board to see what all the fuss was about.
But first, full disclosure: this was actually my second foray into surfboard shaping. A few years back, I had taken a lesson and attempted to create a high-performance thruster, which is a faux pas for first-time shapers (more on that later). However, having that initial experience, followed by this more recent one, I now have a doubly sharp grasp on what to expect as a novice shaper.
For this shaping experience, I went to Foam E-Z in Orange County and apprenticed under longtime shaper Kevin Kunhart (behind Kunny Surfboards). And during our session, I jotted down some mental notes to consider before entering the shaping bay for your first time.
Envisioning the board you want to create in the blank is the first step. Photo: Pat Nolan
SHAPING AIN’T EASY
And it most certainly doesn’t come naturally. Nobody’s going to walk into a shaping bay for the first time, doe-eyed and naïve, and walk out with a perfect replica of a Hayden Cox Hypto Crypto. Even though, during our session, Kunny was encouraging and deferential – “you’re a natural, dude!” he would say. – as I shakily guided the handsaw through the outline. The reality was, when I watched him do it, he was twice as fast and twice as accurate. Bottom line: when entering the shaping bay for the first time, leave your cocky expectations at the door.
EVERYTHING MUST BE BITCHIN’
Over the course of the lesson, Kunny used the term bitchin’ approximately 257 times. The rails, the type of masks we wore, the very particular type of wood we used while tracing the template – it all had to be bitchin’. The point being: if you want your first hand-shaped surfboard to turn out semi decent, you can’t half-ass anything. You gotta put in the extra work and get the appropriate materials to ensure the best board possible. In other words, don’t settle for anything short of bitchin’.
BIGGER IS BETTER
If you set out to shape a 5’10” x 18 3/4” x 2 1/4” performance shortboard, you will be sadly disappointed. This was the mistake I made during my first experience. Instead, shoot for something that can afford a little leniency if the rails aren’t perfect, the tail a tad wonky, the rocker less than textbook, etc. Shape a minivan, not a Lamborghini – at least for your first time.
IT’S A MARATHON, NOT A SPRINT
From start to finish, the board took about five hours to shape. For most people – let alone the attention-span-challenged (like myself) – that’s a long time to maintain focus. And it can force you to get sloppy. But the key is to carry the momentum throughout, don’t burn yourself out, and finish strong. Knowing this now, I should’ve took a hint when Kunny showed up to the shaping room and proceeded immediately to skull a Red Bull.
“A man is only as good as his tools.” And especially when it comes to surfboard shaping. Photo: Pat Nolan
DON’T BE A TOOL; USE THE PROPER EQUIPMENT
They say, “a man is only as good as his tools.” And if you stand a chance at crafting a semi-rideable surfboard on your first go, then having the proper tools will be crucial. Surfboard shaping requires a very particular set of tools – a distinctive style of electric hand planer, sandpaper of varying grit, a surface forming apparatus (which, at first glance, may look like an elaborate cheese grater; but trust me, this thing would mutilate even the hardest hunk of manchego) – and if you deviate from those instruments, you will compromise the finished product. Check out Foam E-Z, for all the essential tools an aspiring shaper will need.
USE PROTECTION
Surfboard shaping is a dangerous hobby – and not because you’re playing with handsaws and power tools. The foam blank is filled with chemicals, and when shaped, tiny particles from the blank can find their way down your windpipe. That’s not good. So be sure to wear a proper mask when shaping. And if you happen to tackle the glassing portion of the job, there’s another set of hazards which come with that. Basically, you’ll wanna read the directions closely and keep a fire extinguisher nearby – just in case.
SWALLOW YOUR PRIDE, TAKE A LESSON
Al Merrick once said: “I wanted to be ‘the best shaper in the world’ – except, you later realize, there’s no such thing.” And that’s coming from the guy who many consider actually is the best shaper in the world. One of the biggest mistakes you can make when shaping your first surfboard is going into it blind. If you have the opportunity, why not enlist the help of someone who has done it hundreds of times before? Couldn’t hurt. And you’ll likely walk away with something you’ll actually want to ride, instead of collect dust in your garage.
The finished product. Photo: Pat Nolan