IT has been said that Japanese Cherry Blossom trees are sacred - often referred to in Japanese folklore as a tree inhabited by spirits, referred to as 'kami', these trees are rich with history and supposedly symbolize the very essence of life and death.
Perhaps it is as a result of their short lifespan, or the fact that the blossoms themselves only showcase their beauty for a short time before falling to the earth to be once more forgotten, at least until their next return.
Those blossoms considered to be sacred or inhabited by a spirit are often marked using a large, thick rope and it is said that anyone who brings harm to such a tree, shall be cursed for life.
A tale of life, death and what follows:
In history, one blossom stands out among the rest and is said to harbour the soul of an old samurai who had committed the act of Hara-kiri beneath that very tree.
The samurai as a child had played beneath the tree and, as he aged and started to outlive family members and his very own children, he grew lonelier and lonelier. Then, a day came in summer when the tree, which he greatly adored, also died and the samurai grew sadder and lonelier by the day.
Neighbours of the samurai, who noted his growing sorrow, went in search of a young cherry tree for the samurai and, when it was found, was presented to him. Pretending to be grateful for their kind gesture, he thanked his neighbours. As a courtesy, the neighbours also planted the tree in the samurai's garden, hoping that it would comfort him, however, it never did and he simply grew sadder with each passing day, until he remembered how the tree might be saved.
In Japanese culture, it is believed that one can trade one's own life for that of another, including creatures and even trees, if the gods so see fit. In Japanese, this is referred to as: migawari ni tatsu - 'to act as a substitute'.
Now, in the district of Wakegori, the tree believed to be inhabited by this samurai, blooms each and every year on January 16 - the day the samurai died.
The name of the tree in Japanese is: Jiu-roku-zakura, or 'The Cherry-tree of the Sixteenth Day' in English.
According to an ancient text, the samurai's last words, which were spoken to the tree, include: "Now deign, I beseech you, once more to bloom, because I am going to die in your stead."
How to grow your own Cherry Blossom:
Now, if you wish to proceed in learning how to grow your own tree from seed, I hope you will appreciate the great history and significance this tree boasts and also, look after it as though it truly is a part of you.
My personal advice would be to order or purchase multiple seeds as opposed to simply buying one seed as germination can be tricky with only 35 to 55% of seeds germinating successfully, depending on the quality of the seed of course.
The seeds have a deep dormancy and require several treatments before they may be sowed - it is advised to place the seeds in a net in which they will not fall through, and place in a flowing river for 48 hours. If you use your imagination, this can easily be done.
Once removed from the water, allow the seeds to dry of and then, prepare a mixture of sieved peat and sharp sand - equal parts of 50/50 and mist it slightly however, not so much that it is wet but merely damp instead.
Gather your seeds and place them in the mixture and into a plastic bag - place it in the fridge for a period of precisely 14 weeks after which you may proceed to plant the seeds in an area, or pot, where plenty of sunlight and drainage is possible.
Despite being adaptable to most soil types, these trees enjoy soils which are acidic and you should include peat moss, preferably Canadian in the mixture to ensure that moisture levels are maintained.
Post care, and once of age should include watering heavily once per month and, if you would like your tree to blossom, refrain from pruning for an entire year.
Ensure that the tree receives organic fertilizer monthly during the growing season and remember, they grow quite out of control and are rather difficult to shape so, ensure that wiring is done efficiently to maintain its shape.
Pruning and wiring should only be done during spring and, it is also advised to water daily, to every second day, especially if the tree receives 100% full sun - do not water heavily unless the monthly watering time has arrived - you may submerge the pot in water until it has completely filled with water.
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I want to learn how to create those really cool twists deep in the base of the trunk like that. Trees don't normally grow like that in nature unless they have had a lot of stress gravity and wind. Maybe this tree is an example of two trees that were woven around a circle, so they would look like one. The deep purple shade of the wood is also very unique with some cherry trees, like this. I think plums also have this deeper wood color. Very interesting.
In my yard, I saved a few cuttings of cherry tree, and it looks like a couple might be starting to root, because the leaves have remained for two months now. Crossing my fingers.
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It's interesting that you mentioned that. I strangely noted the same thing. I believe this specific image highlights two trees which were grown together. The only other logical explanation, which method I doubt has been shared, is that of spring wiring. Image the effect of severely tight wiring with the additional application of a spring. I've only ever once seen this in application but never the progress or the result. I would assume that it would create a severely identical result however, I'm no expert.
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@creativetruth -
Not sure if this will help you or not but, I did some reading up on twisting branches and trunks.
Although it is possible to do this on older trees, younger ones work much better, especially if the 'wood' part of it has not yet formed (I'd go into the scientific explanation of this but we might be stuck here until the end of days).
Long story short, if you are working on older trees, it is advised to wrap the parts you want to work with in very moist sphagnum and allow it to soak for a few days - you might get some suckers etc growing beneath the wrapping but they can of course be removed easily.
This process softens the wood somewhat and will allow for a very slow, time consuming bend to occur with standard wrapping and wiring however, it may also damage the tree but in your case, I am sure you know what you are doing. First wrap in raffia palm before wiring very tightly with the use of thick wire.
The other way for this to be done in older trees, is to use carving methods however, it is not easy to get this method to appear as natural.
Also, apparently raffia palm can be used to tighten around the tree gradually, in a way which I assume will require multiple ties although, this might also allow the tree to take on curved bends instead of spiral bends - this method involves taking the raffia and tying it around the tree without knotting - prior to knotting the raffia, tighten the raffia by turning it like you would a key, except continue to turn until it is severely tight.
I don't see how the raffia could be knotted at this point however, there must be a way to keep it from coming undone.
In my opinion, I would wet the raffia as I think this may also help gradually soften the parts you will be working with overtime so that it takes better to the shaping.
Now, lastly, it is better to use young trees for this especially if the wood has not yet hardened or formed but then again, this is also a lengthy process since you will only have a tree that you desire by the time you are nearing death which would really suck.
I've never done something like this so, I would suggest trying on a tree you don't love all that much first. I'm also going to try this and see how it works and which method works best. I'll get back to you in about three months if I see notable difference in any of the trees.
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I might try this on a tree that has a natural vine tendency, like the dratted trumpet vine that I've been weeding out of my yard since we moved here. Would be much easier to turn green stems around a form. I'm too nervous about snapping the hardwood on deciduous trees.
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That is what has got me concerned as well, especially with some of my indigenous trees. I have opted to however try this on one of them since they are young enough and still in the process of hardening. But, then there is always still the fear of snapping a branch or breaking the tree itself - if it survives that damage it'll at least have some major character.
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