Northeast India is a conglomeration of seven sister states, which are heavily forested, have plentiful rainfall that bestows the beauty these states possess. While listing down the destinations for a long pending long vacation, we zeroed in on packing towards this part of India. We live in Bangalore in India for work, and took our flights from New Delhi as we were there at home right before this trip.
Number of days available: 9 (December to March is ideal time. We did this trip in late March.)
Number of States in option: 9 (7 sisters + Sikkim + West Bengal)
So much to cover in just 9 days? It was evidently impossible to cover all that North-East has to offer. Let’s boil down further!!!
We started our planning with more usual Gangtok-Darjeeling-Shillong itinerary. The available information already brought a vicarious pleasure of learning more about these states. Leafing through many of the blogs, checking the map every now and then however we zeroed in on Northeastern most part of India, Arunanchal Pradesh: Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains. Also known as the Orchid State of India or the Paradise of the Botanists. It was Tawang's beauty, weather condition and snow-covered mountains which excited us most to visit Arunanchal Pradesh. So, we decided to cover Guwahati-Bhalukpong-Bomdila-Dirang-Tawang covering two states Assam and Arunanchal Pradesh.
We found contact for local (Guwahati based) travel agency named NorthEast Simplified to help plan the stay and travel for this duration. Itinerary was decided and the time came to begin the journey in the month of March.
Tip: If booking via a tour operator, prefer to book via operators listed with Tour Operators Association of Assam(TOAA).
New Delhi - Guwahati (flight)
After celebrating the Holi festival with our family, we left for Guwahati. As we landed in Guwahati airport we were welcomed by an amiable driver, and our companion for rest of the journey, named Rabha. Rest of the journey detailed below is by road in a car.
A word of advice: The road journey for the major part of it is full of mountain terrain/roads and bumpy at times. So, keep the kinetosis (motion sickness) vulnerability in mind while planning.
Note: The places to halt at in all the places (except Guwahati) mentioned below are lodges. There are no big hotels in these places, but nonetheless, the places are clean, hospitable and comfortable.
Day 1 - Guwahati-Bhalukpong (~200 Km):
The travel from Guwahati airport to Bhalukpong (Border of Assam and Arunanchal Pradesh) was a long drive of 5 hours. We had our lunch at '7 sisters restaurant' on the highway and kept moving. This leg of the route is usual scenic highway, laden with dense forests, coconut trees, Betelnut palm, tender coconut stalls throughout along the highway.
After reaching Bhalukpong the evening was spent in beautiful surroundings of mountains and Kameng river. It's located along the southern reaches of the Himalayas. If the weather is suitable, next morning can be planned for river rafting. We were not able to do river rafting as it was raining that morning.
Tip: As Bhalukpong is at the Assam-Arunachal border, there is an ILP (Inner Line Permit) required to enter Arunachal Pradesh. This can be taken on the spot, or via your tour operator.
https://goo.gl/EvNUwX – This is the lodge right at the border, where we stayed.
Day 2 - Bhalukpong-Dirang (150 Km)
Early next morning after breakfast we started towards Dirang. At this point, on the main road outside lodge itself ILPs are checked at start of the journey towards Dirang. Dirang is the halt for the day 2 of journey towards Tawang.
On the way to Dirang, we visited an orchidarium with over more than 500 species of orchids in Tippi. Unfortunately, it’s not carefully maintained now. All along, the route is quite scenic with river flowing beside the road, a few waterfalls and echoing mountains around. Tenga valley and the cantonment area there is quite a pleasure to take a break on the way. Buddhist prayer flags perched along the posts, walls and the poles all around. Continuing, and after an overall 5-6 hours of travel we reached Dirang.
Evening there was relaxing in the serene view facing the valley from lodge, and we had now already started feeling chill in the weather. There were many tourists who accompanied us from Bhalukpong. All the way we kept hearing the temperature is decreasing in Tawang and snowfall has started again. If the weather is not favorable we might have to return back without reaching our destination.
Pic 1 - Dirang Valley
Tip: Halt at Tenga valley cantt enroute Dirang, for nice food and some shopping. We bought some nice Indian Army Merchandise.
Day 3 - Dirang-Tawang (129 Km)
We woke up next morning, optimistic, had breakfast and left hotel hoping to reach Tawang. On the way, visited war memorials like Nyukmadung war memorial and very famous Jaswantgarh war memorial. One must read the heroic story and the details available about the Jaswantgarh. As the road kept getting higher, the white patches of snow seemed to amalgamate into a large cover of snow. It felt amazing, mesmerizing, and a bit scary too. We reached a place where roads were blocked by snow. The drivers preferred to move together in case anyone needs help all along. The drivers were prepared for it, so this point onwards, everyone tied chains on the tires to move ahead on snow. All the while, military trucks cutting through the snow ahead of us to make it easier for smaller vehicles. We finally reached Sela Pass(13700m), welcomed by the frozen lake and snow-clad mountains. The excitement can only be felt first hand, though pictures can vouch a bit for it.
Pic 2 - Sela Lake
Pic 3 - A little further from Sela Pass
Tip: Have maggi at Sela pass military cafeteria.
The descend from Sela pass towards Tawang starts, which is a narrow road with lots of curves. The vehicles moved in one direction at a time while stopping and waiting for all opposite side vehicles to cross. Few kilometers before Tawang we stopped by to have a look at Nuranang falls (a.k.a Madhuri falls named after Koyla movie song shooting), we finally reached Tawang. A nice comfortable warm room, much needed, and hospitable people. That’s the place where we had the Tibetan delicacy Thukpa for the first time.
Tip: Indian Army merchandise is also available at Baisakhi army cantt on the way to Tawang.
Tawang Excursion:
Next 2 days were just to explore Tawang and soak up a bit of sun there.
Tawang Monastery, also known as the Golden Namgyal Lhatse, is the second oldest Monastery in the entire world after Lhasa, believed to be 400 years old.
Pic 4 - Tawang Monestry
Pic 5 - Circuit house prayer wheel
Other places to visit locally include Budhha statue (circuit house), Tawang war memorial/Chorten, Prayer wheels everywhere and Tawang Market.
Pic 6 - Tawang view from hotel room
Around 13km from main Tawang, towards Bumla route, lies the mesmerizing Pangang Teng Tso(PTSO) lake, neatly frozen. The trail from main road to the lake was completely covered in about 1.5-2 ft of snow leaving no clue where to step. We managed to dare enough and walk with a group of people down to the lake.
Pic 7 - PTSO Lake
Unfortunately, because the road was blocked by thick snow, we were not able to cover Sangetsar lake (a.k.a Madhuri lake, again got it's name after the shooting of Koyla movie) and much anticipated Bumla pass, so we had to return back to Tawang.
Note: To visit Bumla pass, a special permit is required from the military personnel in Tawang. Usually hotel/lodge people or the driver can help with arranging this. Depending on climate and possibly other factors, it's their discretion to hand out a permit. We couldn't have this fortune due to thick snow.
Return journey:
Day 6 - Tawang-Bomdila
Time flew so fast, and the day came to start our return journey back to Guwahati. The one(and only) night stop during return to Guwahati was at Bomdila, a quiet small village with a few monasteries, lodges and a small market. And since only one stop was planned so the distance to cover per day was a little longer than while coming towards Tawang. Weather was much clearer during return.
Pic 8 - Sela Pass
Day 7 – Bomdila to Guwahati
And now this was the last day on the road! The Weather felt altogether different in Guwahati after few days in the chill. But it has its own beauty in the way city has developed, its markets, the riverside and the beautiful Mekhela Chadar attire.
Day 8 – Guwahati excursion
We visited Maa Kamakhya temple, Kalakhetra, famous markets in Guwahati (Paan bazaar, Fancy bazaar and few nooks and corners nearby), bought lots of tea leaves variety. Best experience in Guwahati was the Brahmaputra River cruise, with live music performances aboard. The sunset felt serene while cruising on the mighty Brahmaputra river.
Pic 9 - Sunset view from the cruise
Tip: Reach at least 1 hour before cruise start time to avail the best seats and upper deck.
Day 9 – Guwahati - Bangalore
Guessed it right? Back to routine!
Few more bonus pics down below:
Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:
https://tickingtrip.wordpress.com/2017/11/18/tawang-diaries/
Downvoting a post can decrease pending rewards and make it less visible. Common reasons:
Submit
That's my blog itself on wordpress !
Downvoting a post can decrease pending rewards and make it less visible. Common reasons:
Submit