Cooking Banh Xeo in Hoi An, Vietnam - Travel Review

As a traveler foodie, the highlight of any trip is learning about food culture. And what better way to learn about food culture than by taking a cooking class. While visiting Vietnam, my wife and I spent a few days in Hoi An, which was my favorite of all the places we visited. One of our adventures in Hoi An was the opportunity to visit an organic farm where fifty local families maintained small plots of vegetable and herb gardens. We were able to walk around the farm and interact with some of the families out working on their plots. Afterwards, we went into the adjacent restaurant to learn how to make a Vietnamese dish called Banh Xeo (bon say-o). Banh Xeo is a crepe-like savory pancake that you will with fresh mint and basil and then wrap in rice paper. In a word, delicious.

Our instructor missed his calling as a comedian. He started the lesson off in French...for an English speaking group. He appeared to enjoy his job and was playful and funny. He was also a good instructor. After demonstrating the process for making Banh Xeo, we donned aprons and chef hats to try our hand at the dish. Of course, there is an element of flipping the pancake in the pan that offered some additional comic relief. The pancakes only take a few minutes to make, but we were hungry, too. After learning to make the dish, we took a seat at our tables and were served from the kitchen. The dish is not terribly difficult to make and is very tasty. The fresh herbs balance the heavier scallion and pork. The dish is normally served with a spicy sweet dipping sauce.

When my wife and I arrived home, we decided to try our hand at Banh Xeo. This photo depicts how my first attempt at this dish turned out. Not too shabby. We wrapped them in rice paper and filled them with lettuce, mint, basil and a shot of lime. I did not make the dipping sauce...that was store bought. Below is a recipe I modified from other recipes on the internet to my liking:

Batter
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk (from a well-stirred 13 1/2- to 14-ounce can)
6 tablespoons water
1 cup Asian rice flour
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon salt

Filling
1/4 pound boneless pork shoulder, trimmed
3/4 pound medium shrimp in shell (31 to 35 per pound), peeled
1 teaspoon packed light brown sugar
1 fresh lemongrass stalk, root end trimmed and 1 or 2 outer leaves discarded
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup thinly sliced onion
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Additional Ingredients
4 teaspoons vegetable oil
6 ounces fresh soybean or mung-bean sprouts (2 1/2 cups), trimmed
1/4 cup chopped scallions
1 small head green or red leaf lettuce
1/2 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves
Lime wedges

Instructions

Batter:

Mix coconut milk, and water (6 tablespoons) with rice flour, sugar, turmeric, and salt in a bowl.

Filling:
Cut pork across the grain into 1/2-inch-thick slices, then cut slices into 2 1/2- by 1/2-inch strips. Stir together pork, shrimp and brown sugar.
Mince enough of lower portion of lemongrass stalk to measure 2 teaspoons.
Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking, then stir-fry onion, lemongrass, garlic, and pepper for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. Make a well in center of mixture and add shrimp and pork and stir-fry until shrimp turns pink, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a clean bowl. (Shrimp and pork will not be cooked through.)

Crépes:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 200°F.
Heat 1 teaspoon oil in cleaned skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Stir batter, then pour 1/2 cup into skillet, immediately tilting and rotating skillet to coat bottom. Sprinkle one fourth of fresh bean sprouts over half of crepe, then stir filling and spoon one fourth of filling evenly on top of bean sprouts. Sprinkle one fourth of scallions on top. Reduce heat to moderately low and cook, covered, until edge of crepe begins to pull away from side of skillet (check occasionally), about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low and cook crépe, uncovered, until underside and edge are crisp and golden, 2 to 3 minutes more (lift with a spatula to check underside; shrimp and pork will be fully cooked). Fold crépe over and gently slide onto a large rack on a large baking pan and keep warm in oven. Make 3 more crépes with remaining oil, batter, bean sprouts, filling, and scallions in same manner.

Stuff with lettuce and herbs and wrap in softened rice paper. Serve with lime wedges and dipping sauce.

I hope you enjoy!