In which I stand on the carcass of a derelict plane, am engulfed by the spray of waterfall and geyser alike, and bury my fingers in a galaxy of smooth pebbles.
My last full day in Iceland, and the last entry in my stream of consciousness travel log on the completion of one of my long time dreams: driving all the way around the Icelandic ring road. If you want to catch up with the full week as I go around, no problem — links to all previous entries are at the bottom of each post. Almost every pic in here is a bad cell phone photo, because over the coming months I'm going to break up large, editorial DSLR sets for in-depth posts. I've been slowly going through the pictures that I took on the road, and they're some of my best work... ever. I'm pretty humbled, and sharing this slightly-disorganized, hopefully-entertaining look into my trip and my thoughts has been a great experience.
Day Seven of the Iceland Ring Road Mission by the numbers.
Around 3.25 hours of driving.
About 255 kilometres traveled.
- Current running total of all-soup meals: 19 (officially out of soup)
- Kilometres Hiked: approximately 14
- Pounds of black rocks and sand stuffed into my suitcase: 2
- Rainbows over Skógafoss: 2
- Pairs of shoes soaked through by dangerous sneaker waves: 1
- Vikings found: 0
I wake up suddenly and scramble to fill my backpack in the pre-dawn light; I'm staying right on the far end of the famous black sand beach that is likely one of the absolutely most recognizable places in Iceland. I have about a three kilometre hike to get to the hexagonal basalt columns on Reynisfjara, and want to run down the beach before the first of the tour buses disgorges a seething wave of humanity
I tilt my head as I read the four successive billboards about 'sneaker' waves crawling up the beach silently to drag unsuspecting tourists into the depths. They seem awfully hyperbolic about something they gave such a silly name to. DEATH WAVES. WAVES OF PREY! I don't know. Something better than sneakers. As I begin to run down the beach to catch the sunrise behind Reynisdrangar, I look nothing like I always hope that I do when traveling — namely mysterious, prepared, collected, and effortlessly attractive in exploring the world around me with a lithe step and spritely confidence. I'm carrying a fifteen pound backpack, teetering as I trudge slowly in the shifting, slowing pebbles and soft sand in some approximation of the gait of a thoroughly over-it hippo. I've also been avoiding brushing my hair because that's just a whole thing at this point.
The beach has all the beauty I could possibly hope for, and I get a small twinge thinking about how nice it would be to get a smooth water shot using a neutral density filter. (I look up to the sky in memory; at least it went out in a spectacular fashion, I suppose. See day 5 if this makes no sense to you.) Where the foam recedes, it polishes the uniform black pebbles to a wet leather shine. Each colour in the sunrise is amplified and reflected from millions upon trillions of gently domed obsidian mirrors, sparking fire. It feels like someone has raked a field of black glitter outwards from where I stand as a welcome (there are truly no words for how much I adore black glitter) and I wiggle a little happily as I drink in the view... and then I wiggle a lot unhappily as one of those fucking sneaker waves fills my calf high boots to the brim with sea water. There is much thrashing and flailing and swearing and I have to take each boot off to comically pour it out. In the next half hour walking the beach, not one other frigging wave sneaks up that far, or even approaches it.
The black sand starts out powder fine, almost like ink pigment, and slowly grows into pea sized pebbles as it approaches the cliffs. I'm pretty thankful I'm here early enough to be throwing handfuls of it around gleefully without having to be considerate of spiking unsuspecting tourists in the face with shrapnel. I begin slowly exploring along the base of the bluffs as I head back to the perfect geometric columns and the beautiful cave formation that is on every postcard in every shop and gas station I've hit along the way.
The columns rupture around the mouth of the cavern, shattered into scale-like shards that give the face of the stone the appearance of sinuous, jointed movement... almost as though some incomprehensible piece of a gigantic lizard armored in slate and shale. I climb up the leveled pillars as high as I dare, and as I ascend I spot the first bus pulling into the lot a ways off, leading to a scramble down to leave with the image of the quiet, empty beach untainted in my mind. I shake my fist at the sneaker wave billboard on the way out with a bit more spite than is necessary. About twenty minutes later, I'm still way ahead of the tour bus cycle and hiking another four or so kilometers over a slope so flat and gentle that I don't realize the curvature until the hulking mass of what is left of a forty-year-old DC-3 fuselage rises into view.
No one died here, and it doesn't feel spooky (though, at night I bet it's a whole other tin can full of bullet holes.) It feels absolutely surreal to be clambering about on the stubby, shattered wings of an aircraft; even one that is covered in scratched graffiti... and especially one with wires and components dangling out of panels like glimpses of broken viscera.
The trek out begins, and I pass the first gaggle of tourists rolling in. Still ahead of the pack and I amble and shuffle a little faster as my luck at pretending the entire world belongs to me continues to hold. I pull into Skógafoss, and that's the end of that. The closer I get to Reykjavik, the more busy each attraction gets, as people with short stopovers are questing to see some of the natural allure of the country with the shortest drive and least effort; there are at least fifteen buses clustered along the edge of the grass embankment. The falls are renowned for throwing a mist so thick that rainbows perpetually arc in doubles and triples of brilliant light, and I can see them from almost a kilometre away. I'm not at all prepared for how incredible they look when I'm practically standing in them... the dozens of other people basically drop away. Or, mostly do, until I take an errant selfie stick to the chin and decide it's time to move on before I snatch it and swat the user back.
As the sun sets, I make my last stop at Geysir and watch a miniature version of the original that the phenomenon was named for. (That similarity to geyser is no coincidence.) A smaller, hyperactive brother spout blurbles away between bursts, as Geysir itself lays dormant and forboding. The water is that same milky blue that the geothermic pools here all share, and it rockets into the sky every few minutes, cascading droplets and mist directly into the gloaming. I lose track of how many times I watch the dome form above the shimmering mud, and the excitement each time I try to predict an eruption. I've cut another sentence here about burping and farting, becuse I'm an adult travel professional™. As the night creeps in closely and before I head to my very last cabin, I peer into the depths of the old portal itself. It is blue and abyssal and enigmatic. It's very difficult to reconcile pretty much instantly scalding to death with the smooth, pastel invitation of that cerulean cistern just below the surface. On the way out, I note the sign and tiny mew of admiration escapes my lips... Nature does not care for your money. When you throw it into the boiling hot water, you are polluting and littering the area. If you want to help someone by giving them money, please do.
My god, I'm going to miss this country.
All of these photos, stories, and words are my own original work, inspired by my travels all over this pretty blue marble of ours. I hope you like them. 🌶️
DAY 1 | DAY 2 | DAY 3 | DAY 4 | DAY 5 | DAY 6
!steemitworldmap 63.638443 lat -20.114267 long Black Sand Beaches, Plane Crashes, and Geysers Iceland D3SCR
Of all the photographers I've seen on Steemit I think you have the best eye. This series of posts have been truly spectacular. Your words ain't bad either babe 😉
Great job Crimmy ❤️
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your support on all my work has always been so heartening, Perc. It is so appreciated; sharing my stuff like this is really awesome and I'm more encouraged every day.
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Hey, anytime babe. You're a quality writer. 😉
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Reading posts like these, make me realize how beautiful a thing language can be and how English will always remain my second language. You write like a true poet with a unique style and your love for the visual/ your photographer's eye make your posts double as interesting.
Have a great day!
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Yet another great post! :) Really enjoy your photography.
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What an awesome trip. I've never heard the term "sneaker wave" before, but clearly they are just as dangerous for boots as they are sneakers. Yep, I just said that. Enjoy that free terrible fucking pun on the house. :)
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this is bad and you should feel bad. <3
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RIP neutral density filter. Thank you for your sacrifice.
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nevar4get :(
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I am in awe of your every post. You call these crap photos, but they are fabulous! I can't wait for the real ones. You have such a way with desciption, I adore you! Please make a book!
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You truly are wonderful.
I actually usually do compile my photos into coffee table books, but I've never thought about including writing with them before.
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What a beautiful place it is... and well done for taking it on by yourself and staying ahead of the tourgroups!
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it helped, going in the shoulder season. It simply wouldn't have been possible in high season!
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Your post brought back some great memories. I can't wait to go back some day.
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very cool, and thank you. Did you do the ring road?
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We did. Rented a van and camped in it around the ring road.
That reminds me. I started posting about it, then I got sidetracked.
This is about a year old, but you should get a chuckle out of it
https://steemit.com/travel/@gikitiki/my-visit-to-iceland-community-pools
It's all about the Junk Wash
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Amazing photos and experiences. Your writing is picturesque. I could see the adventure without the photos.
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thank you so much! I always hope to share some of the feeling with the peopel who bother to put in the time to read~
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Congratulations, Your Post Has Been Added To The Steemit Worldmap!
Author link: http://steemitworldmap.com?author=crimsonclad
Post link: http://steemitworldmap.com?post=completing-the-iceland-ring-road-day-7-glittering-black-from-vik-to-the-finish-line-crashing-planes-waves-and-eruptions
Want to have your post on the map too?
Add the following inside your post:
!steemitworldmap xxx lat yyy long description d3scr
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OMG!!! I love your pics!!! You take some of the best pictures... I am so jealous of the places you travel too :)
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won't be long until you're on the road or the high seas again!
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Wow beautiful pictures !
The beach looked gorgeous and the cliffs were amazing!
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this is totally relevant, because I LOOOOVE spooky beautiful things~
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The first picture has a rock that looks like a castle on a mountain.
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it actually totally does look like that, now that you mention it.
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Wonderful post @crimsonclad. Your beautiful photos are only outmatched by your writing. Well done :)
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thank you so much bucky! I'm trying to turn out a few more posts. It might even happen some day, lol
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Congratulations @crimsonclad, this post is the second most rewarded post (based on pending payouts) in the last 12 hours written by a Superuser account holder (accounts that hold between 1 and 10 Mega Vests). The total number of posts by Superuser account holders during this period was 727 and the total pending payments to posts in this category was $2831.61. To see the full list of highest paid posts across all accounts categories, click here.
If you do not wish to receive these messages in future, please reply stop to this comment.
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Heya, just swinging by to let you know you're being featured in our Daily Travel Digest!
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you guys are too good to me.
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You need to write a book of your travels, seriously. Your narration is incredibly thoughtful, dazzlingly poetic, and draws the reader into your world with no hope of escape until you choose to release your hold. The accompanying photos are astounding, too, composed with a careful eye! Bravo and kudos!
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you are way too kind. This sort of thing is a work in progress, but I'm excited to continue sharing these sorts of things with everyone. It means very much to me to have such kind words shared with me. Thank you so much~
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Wow this is wonderful! And the way you explained the whole trip and editing was really easy and interesting to read, can't wait to go to Iceland also! Keep on steeming this is lovely!! Oh and the photography is breath-taking :) Keep on doing what you're doing.
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thank you so much! It was an experiment to share this way, but I really enjoyed the experience. I hope that as I explore more in the future, that I get the chance to do so~ I really appreciate you stopping in to say this.
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Wow. I'd been holding off reading this until now. There's basically no way this isn't going into the top 3 of today's travel digest.
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thank you, choo <3
make me work for it
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Its such a great experience for all travellers to visit the lceland.l envy you hope one day will be able to experience what l see in your photos
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you never know! I spend most of my year saving to travel. I hope you get to see all of the places you wish to in the future~
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Mamamia, what a lunar landscape ! Well done to capture those unique moments
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thank you! it was a hauntingly beautiful place.
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Crim... remember all those ninja points I took back? well I just sent them back to you via u-haul truck...
What a beautiful trip, and your pictures are fantastic... When I grow up and become a real boy I'm going to visit this Iceland of crazyness!
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do it! flights are cheap in the shoulder season, and it's a beautiful place to explore. You'd have all sorts of fun~
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Marvellous Photography @crimsonclad and vary beautifully written. I appreciate your way of writing. In all the place you have visited is vary beautiful.
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thank you so much for stopping to say so!
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Ive always wanted to do this !
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keep at it...and definitely do it :)
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Beautiful @crimsonclad
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thank you! the experience meant a lot to me
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Wow! Iceland. It's one of the places that I'd like to visit at least once in my life. You've captured some very good photos here. Keep up the good work.
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highly, highly recommend going in the shoulder season! beautiful colours and way fewer people~
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You even had a double rainbow :))) a little bit jealous but still amazing post :)
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there were rainbows all over the place! Only New Zealand came close for the sheer amount of rainbows seen. It was super neat!
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:) I have to add New Zealand then to my whish list :)
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Very cool. I like to travel so much and my biggest dream is to visit Iceland. Hope it's come true soon) I wish you more exciting travels!
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thank you! I saved and plotted for quite a while... I hope you get a chance to do it! Travel in the shoulder season to make it much more affordable~
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Thanks @crimsonclad For Excellent photography.
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Lovely photography!
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thank you for stopping in to say so!
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Nice journey and wonderful pics! 🤘
Check out the cheap travel deals and flights on holidayheroes! 🔥
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beautiful pics and words
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much appreciated
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Gotta love iceland! Cool article :)
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thanks so much~ have you been?
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Yeah we've circled the Ring Road last autumn. Iceland is so unique
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I miss the crap out of you.
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omg
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that was kind of my thoughts everywhere I went there, yeah!
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Wonderful post and stunning pictures, it is a dream of mine to go to Iceland!
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Wow the picture is very nice
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thanks for stopping to say so~
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This post has been resteemed by @minnowsupport courtesy of @globo from the Minnow Support Project ( @minnowsupport ). Join us in Discord.
Upvoting this comment will help support @minnowsupport.
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