FireTravels #4—Meeting Gaddi Shepherds of the Middle Land!

in travel •  7 years ago  (edited)

I had survived the storm. It was 7 am and at nearly 14,000 ft I couldn’t sleep any longer. I set my foot out of the tent into the wet grass, and felt the tiny wisp of moisture on my lips dry away in an instant. I turned around and started walking towards the nearby hillocks wanting to get a better view of the surrounding area.

As I got closer the view parted and I noticed hundreds large dots of white, brown and some even black in color. Sheep—I figured as much, but how in the world did they get here? We were half a day’s ride away from any major village in the mountains.

Last evening, I had ridden into a small plateau, wedged between the roaring river hundreds of feet below and the towering Himalaya beside it. Having been forced to pitch my tent twice in the dark of the night, with the howling wind for company, just a couple of miles south of, ‘Chandertaal—Lake of the Moon,’ I was certain that I would fly away with my temporary abode by dawn.

When I reached the site, I heard a few dogs barking, and there were a handful of them on duty. I looked around and found their masters surrounded by their flock of sheep and walked towards them for a conversation. These two shepherds were part of the ‘Gaddi’ tribe—a nomadic tribe that habitats parts of Himachal Pradesh, one of the northernmost and prettier states of India. The original Gaddi tribes seemed to have migrated to these areas from parts of Central Asia, Rajasthan and even Gujarat, altho there isn’t much documented evidence of their origins today.

I exchanged pleasantries with the older of the two and introduced myself. The elder of the two identified himself as, ‘Kashmir Singh Rana,’ and the other as, ‘Bahadur Singh Rana.’ I was curious and asked them if they are father and son to which, ‘Kashmir’ responded saying that, ‘Bahadur’ was his grandson. Now in disbelief, I continued my chat with them to find out more about them and their tribe.

Their main occupation is shepherding and they sell sheeps and goats for wool. They had over 500 sheep to their name and all of them were marked. They also had a few mules and horses at their village somewhere deep in the state. They were far from their home as the grass is great in these parts for grazing, and they had to work to feed their families. It was summertime and they were exploring the upper hills and often retreat back during the freezing winters.

Both their attires were homemade using sheep wool, and they sported woolen trousers, long shawls and caps.

I asked them stories from their lives and they spoke about how one of the years they were caught up in the storm crossing Rohtang La (a treacherous pass with summit at over 13000 feet) and a lightning strike killed some of their sheep.

The mentioned how floods had ravaged their land and forced them to work harder as some had lost their homes and sheeps. But luckily one of the years when destruction struck them, the government did come to their assistance. I was happy to learn about that.


Grandfather: Kakshmir Singh Rana

We shared stories about our land and life. My home is nearly 2000 miles south of our current location and life vastly different. These shepherds had lived their entire lives traveling within 250 sq.kms of land. They asked me if I liked what I have seen in my travels through Spiti Valley so far. I replied affirmatively saying that I’ve seen beauty in the harshness of the land and it was incredible. This is what I’ve wanted for a decade, and now that I’m here, I’m also grateful for having made this far.


Grandson: Bahadur Singh Rana

The weather improved shortly and I had to ride to the lake. Just as I left, I asked them, ‘if they feel the same way, do they find insurmountable beauty in the stark naked and contrasting harshness of these mountains, just as you and I would?

I put forth my question and then left to visit the lake. When I returned, Kashmir Singh Rana had come to the campsite with his grandson and his loyal dogs and we resumed our conversation. He had all the answers ready for me.

He replied in all honesty, “Spiti is our home. As nomads of this land, we travel far and wide accompanied only by our dogs to help graze our sheep and sell its wool to provide for our families. We may fight with nature to survive sometimes, and occasionally wish for a better life. But, we are content and happy because this is where we belong. After all, this is the land of our birth, sustenance and passing. We are born from this earth, indebted to it and ultimately one day we will merge with it.”

This was the ultimate truth and in his original words I realized the enduring spirit of the great tribes originating from Spiti Valley. I continued my travels but my conversation with the shepherd remains etched forever in my mind.

I shot the first photograph when it was time for us to part ways. I printed these photographs and a couple more and sent it to his address. I can only hope and wonder if these would have reached him, and I hope he remembers our meeting.

Circa 2012


I’m sure @onceuponatime you must be missing your days up in Manali riding to all these places and more. Maybe some of my posts will refresh your memories of riding in these parts back in the day!

Thank you for your attention and support!


If you like my work, please share my posts and follow my blog to support me. You may also continue reading my recent posts which might interest you:

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Yes, I really miss driving up to the Rohtang La on my motorcycle and stopping at chai shops (and chang shops lol) along the way. But the weather can change very fast and one always risks being caught in something more than you were expecting when you left the serene valley below at Manali.

That must've been amazing in its own way! :D I've been caught up in some bad weather there myself. But love the place so much! :)

Beautiful story!

Sir,your caption is showing your love towards nature. This piece of nature really full of awesomeness. Your artisitic acumen is highly appreciated in your diverce dexterity of goodness.
Really like this writing and pic.....

   to ---- Sir Firepower (Proud of India)

Thanks dude! :)

sir your word "Thanks" is valueable for me.
welcome sir....

Great story!

**Thank @firepower!!!
Follow you

Thank you! :)

& you!

You have a way with words, wow. What a great way to think of their land. I can imagine this line of thought being passed down from parents to child for thousands of years.

oh wow! Thank you for this comment! I must admit Steemit is inspiring me to write more of my stories. :)

Steemit has a way of inspiring people to be creative :)

indeed! :)

That is some story. Interesting to read about yer old school shepherd. It sounds pretty rough, but also comes with unique stories.

As nomads of this land, we travel far and wide accompanied only by our dogs to help graze our sheep and sell its wool to provide for our families.

Keep up the good work - I am loving these FireTravels.

Thank you @sjennon! I'm loving writing stories from my old logs that have been catching dust all these years. With Steemit I seem to have found a perfect outlet for my stories and experience sharing! :)

Keep digging in your old logs!

for sure! :D

Interesting conversations you had with the nomads, and I kind of envy them living the way they are, not that I would be abel to but I find it fascinating.

Thanks! Sometimes I do share your sentiments on this matter. Even though I might not be able to do what they do.

My first comment on steem it on my Mentor @firepower's awesome travel blog. Kashmir Singh's comment - "we are content and happy, because this is where we belong" sums up the beautiful, simple, uncomplicated nomadic life away from the maddening rat race of the cities. I at times, envy them for everything they are and what I am not.. Upvoted your beautiful blog :)

Thank you so much for the kind words! I'm glad you liked it. Feel free to share it around :D

Nice post man. 14,000 feet does it get harder to breathe?

Awesome title btw, the Firetravels :)

Yes it does get harder. Till 10-11K its fine but anything higher if you aren't acclimatised fully it can be bad and also fatal in some cases.

And thanks! @timsaid help me come up with this for my travel series. :)

This isn't traveling bro, this is adventure!

#FireTravels and #FireAdventures eh? hahaha Thanks buddy! :)

@firepower I have looked after sheep before when I was farming so I know what it is like. I couldn't imagine what the people of Himachal Pradesh go through braving the elements everyday. Sometimes I think they have it right and we as a society have it so wrong! Excellent post and I have certainly followed :)

Wow! Thank you for such a wonderful comment. It's great to know that you have some prior experience here and you could relate to this story. :)

I certainly could rekate although I was looking after 5000 sheep and had the assistance of vechiles and sheep dogs. Great post and looking forward to the next one.

Thank you! The next post is already live and working on another one. :)

Nomads are the true sons and daughters to the land. They are the ones who are in love with distant and uncharted places. A great post!

Thank you! :) Glad you liked it.

Wonderful and inspiring post. I'm enjoying your writings.

Thank you so much! :)

This post received a 25% upvote from @randowhale thanks to @firepower! For more information, click here!

This is an inspiration of wording and the pictures are a real eye catcher . It reminds me of the old times seen in the movies

Thank you. I feel that way sometimes when I write my work and read it haha! Im a bit old school myself I guess...

It's also a great way to progress after reading your own work , once you clear your mind and read it again , you catch even more ! Keep it up

Thank you! I will be writing more travel stories. :)

Awesome experience and a beautiful portrait! Our travels through south america and africa were truly rewarding and a life changer! Follow back if you might be interested:)

Thank you so much! Will check your blogs :)

Excellent Post... which part india is it... looks amazingly beautiful !

Thanks. This is in Himachal Pradesh, northern part of the country, just below Kashmir. :)

Amazing story!!!
14,000 feet!!! Where you bicycling? motorcycle? car?

I went motorcycling! :D

Oh!! wow.. It is such a wonderful post. Nice pictures anyway.

Thanks :)

good post!

thanks :)

no problem

"If you like my work, please share my posts and follow my blog to support me. You may also continue reading my recent posts which might interest you:"

I like your work, and so many other steemians, like your work too. You have emerged as the winner of steemit-appreciatesyou project. Someone nominated you and two other people supported the nomination.

You can check my blog to see it there. I'll be making an appreciation post for you soon.

Thanks. Ive followed you back now! :)

You are welcome.

Great story and interesting photos. You are making me wish I could visit!

Thank you :D Glad you liked it! :)

Gorgeous photo and authentic vibes. I could feel it. Gave you a follow, give thanks!

Thank you so much! :) Already following you :)

Jafar!! Jafar!! lol nice post

Thanks :D

The people who understand the language of the mountains ...

True that! :)

if u like nature and travel blog you may like mine.. let me know!

the meeting very nice and very helpfull

thanks Upon its input. hehehe

I smile i see you

welcome

Indeed! :)

Bro you're simply fab

Thank you! Hope you liked this story. :)

Great travel post!

thank you :D

These stories really makes my life look boring.

Hehe! Thanks. I hope you will like my future stories too! :)

Wonderful post upvoted and followe!

Thank you! :)

Good story from your trip ,, be careful on the road-@firepower

Thanks :)

Beautiful pics.I'm a photographer too and I'm from your neighbor country...XD

Fantastic! :) Thanks for your comment!

My Pleasure.

Great...
images (3).jpg

thanks :)

Welcome:))

Very nice post! Followed! You can check out my travel photos as well.

Will do! Thank you :) Followed you! Your blog looks great!

Wish there were more pictures!
Great post :)

There are 1-2 more. Will share them in the follow-up to this. :) Thanks

Thanks a lot for the lovable insights @firepower!
Thank you for the invite.
I am a totally new to Steemit.

Recently, I wrote a Crazy Review of Supercars for steemians.
Please. check it out and vote.

Sure.. Thanks for the comment and welcome to Steemit!

This is crazy! Love it :)

Thank you dude! :)

hey anytime man

@firepower thats great upvoted
you can check my photography too thanks

https://steemit.com/steemitphotochallenge/@diverse-thinker/steemitphotochallenge

Thanks :)

Я вам напишу коментар на своїй мові, бо нею я краще зможу висловити своє захоплення. Мені дуже сподобалась ваша стаття і фото. Перше фото довго розглядала і на секунду здалось, що я там. Це надзвичайно гарно. Рада, що пост оцінили. Дякую.

(Wow. It is a beautiful post/ Thanks)

Thank you so much! :)

Interesting story and wonderful pictures!

Thank you so much! :)

Nice place, I have follow you! :)

Thank you! :)

Thank you! :)

Gorgeous writing and really great portraits. Keep it going! Love seeing your posts.

I just posted some new street photography. I'd love your feedback if you get a chance! Stay safe out there & steem on!
https://steemit.com/photography/@chrissymchavez/night-falls-on-the-river

Thanks :) Will check.

Thanks dude :)

Nice! I follow !
Have a look at my page, i have some interesting pictures :)

Will do :)

Thanks for sharing this story. My english is not the best, but i think i understood it all. This life must be "hard" for someone which is living in big cities, but for these people its a normal thing.. a normal life. Wonderful picture(s) also!

Thank you so much! :) I hope to write more stories from my life and travels.

I would like to read them!

This is very interesting @firepower.
Cool post, very creative :-)

Thank you so much! :)

You're welcome!

I am traveling back to India and I feel hesitant to go out there alone to the mountains . But this is such an inspirational for me right now. Thank you!

You're welcome! :)

This was an amazing post, honestly really good. I loved the way you described the village and the grandfather and grandson. It is cool that the government helped them out, I doubt too many people know about them. What an amazing piece of humanity you shared. The pictures were great too. They really showed the wear and tear of life on the face of the grandson. The grandfather looks remarkably young. Great post. Thank you for sharing and I look forward to more. Appreciate it.

@thejohalfiles i think you might like this story. :)

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ok :D

Great story and photos. Thanks for sharing!

Who gonna Share The Reason of Dispute of Kashmir ... ?

how is that even remotely relevant here?