Hokkaido (part 2): Sapporo to Asahikawa [the long way]

After stopping in at Otaru, and then staying overnight in Sapporo, it was time to hit the road again. Today, I was aiming for the northern most tip of Hokkaido; Cape Soya... but I'd made a late start. I wanted to see the whole coastline north of Sapporo, which meant taking the longer route. But in retrospect, I probably should have used the highway for the first 100km. That would have delivered me straight to Rumoi town in pretty quick time, and the riding north from here really started to open up.

This region is best known for its breezy shores and large wind turbines that harness the cold winter Siberian winds that blow across the Sea of Japan. But today, the blades were turning at a lazy pace, and many remained idle. As I rode further north, villages became fewer, power lines started to disappear, and open fields reached all the way to the seashore. The sun was getting low in the sky, so it was time to pull in for the night, and enjoy an onsen; one never seems to be too far away.

The next day, I was up early and eager to continue my journey north. Off on the horizon to my left, the towering peak of Rishiri Island had come clearly into view, with its smaller brother Rebun Island likely in its shadow and hidden from view. There was little now in the way of trees, just scrub and grasslands. I can only imagine how cold this place must get in the middle of winter. Luckily for me though, this mid-August day was warm and sunny.

The lesser known of the two northern capes of Hokkaido, is Cape Noshappu. I pulled in here as a warm-up to the main event. For some reason there was a statue of a dolphin holding up a clock here, and the clock was showing 11am; time for me to pull into Wakkanai town for lunch, my first meal of the day.

I went with the Wakkanai lunch set, and followed up with a small chocolate cake and a coffee. Now revved up on sugar and caffeine, it was straight to Cape Soya, for a few shots to prove I had made it to Hokkaido's most northerly point. It had taken me longer than I expected, but I'd made it nonetheless.

It was time to head back south again (as clearly north was no longer an option!). My plan was to have one night up north, and then stay overnight at Hokkaido's second city; Asahikawa. But this a big island and in the end, I needed an extra night between Cape Soya and Asahikawa. From the cape, I plotted an inland route, that took me along roads that are undoubtedly a little less-traveled and unloved. I was curious to see the terrain. The riding varied from superb to quite bland. The winters here must be bitterly cold, so much of the landscape is scrubland and forest. On the map, I had located a campsite right next to another hotspring onsen, on the banks of the Teshio-Nakagawa River, on route 40. Looking at the map, I was surprised how far away I still was from Asahikawa; not even close!

My third and final day of this most northern of northern rides, took me mainly along route 40, through the mountains to the towns of Nayoro and Shibetsu. From here, I left the main drag and tried route 101 which ended up being a fantastic ride into Aibetsu, and what a gorgeous summer day. The vast open plains of this rich fertile regions made for some memorable riding. Finally, the home stretch to Asahikawa.

(to be continued)...