This is a post from 2010 when I was living in Seoul, South Korea. I think it is relevant today with all the drama that is going on with North Korea at the moment. This is a glimpse inside what it feels like to live right next door to North Korea from a foreigner's perspective and how it feels to the South Koreans after 60+ years of living with a constant threat from up north.
"Erin, do you know what's going on over there?" My Dad asked me over Skype 15 minutes before I had to walk to work. As much as I should be able to answer yes to this question I answer no assuming that the answer which was running through my head being, that it's warm enough to wear my exposed finger mittens instead of my encased finger mittens is probably not why he is calling to ask if I am in the know about.
He proceeds to explain to me that today is the day for war. South Korea is practicing some military exercises and North Korea is planning on retaliating if they do. Then, South Korea has announced that if they retaliate they will not take it lightly and are not being pushed around anymore. Also, this is all starting within the hour. They then proceed to tell me that CNN has announced that the Korean Peninsula is the most dangerous place on Earth right now. Weird. This all sounds pretty serious, but it is very hard to comprehend when you are living here, and when you went outside earlier today the only thing that seemed strange was how crowded Baskin Robbins was at 11 a.m. It doesn't usually get crowded like that until at least after 4 - what is the deal? Could the answer be war?
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My parents are rather concerned, which they should be based on the news report, and convince me to pack this getaway bag to take to school with me. I have to leave in like ten minutes so this consists of me running around my room and throwing my laptop, cords, phones (both of them), chargers, ipods, my journal, a book for reading, my enclosed finger mittens (in case it gets colder), all my money and credit cards, and my passport in a matter of seconds. I throw on my clothes and just barely make it out of my apartment in time, ready to brave the streets of battle.
Now that I am aware that Seoul could be on the brink of war I find myself prepared to see some chaos once outside my apartment. I notice two girls walking and laughing. . . nervous laughter? Can't be sure, so I scan them for some signs of distress. No getaway bags, no rushed speed, seems as if they don't know about the situation. I turn the corner in anticipation of deserted streets, or people running, blood curdling screams, maybe fires, but instead, nothing. Just the normal business men walking at their normal slow pace. I weave around them and the normal amount of cars and mopeds.
I will admit my parents freaked me out and I probably exaggerated a city on the brink of war in my head, but I can't shake the uneasy feeling I have that accompanies me for my whole 20 minute walk to school. I keep checking the sky for planes and bombs. Can you see these things coming? What would be my plan if I did? Duck under this food cart, or run down into the subway? Should I hide out in some Baskin Robbins. . . is this the popular choice? What does one do in a war zone, armed with her own brute strength and weighed down by a large getaway bag? Duck and cover? Stop, drop and roll? I find myself not knowing the proper reaction to battle.
As I am contemplating these questions waiting for the crosswalk light to turn green I look at the people around me; my fellow peers in this distressing situation. Do these people have a plan? I wonder if the little boy next to me eating a red bean filled pancake with drool down his chin knows that battle could ensue at any moment. Or if the other girl about my age is considering what she would do if she spotted a missile in the air. The answer is that they weren't thinking about these things. Why are they so nonchalant? Is it because they have lived with this threat for so long and are used to it, or do they just think nothing will really happen? The light turns green.
I get to school and check my email half expecting a message from the embassy instructing me how to evacuate the country, but it is not there. I wonder where I would go if I had to evacuate. My friend Peter informs me that they bus everyone south out of Seoul and then boat us over to Japan and then fly us to Alaska or Hawaii and we are only allowed to take a 50 lb bag. Check - done and done. I'm ready for immediate evacuation. Then I realize a minor hiccup in the plan. My best friend, Lem, is not prepared for this. I decide right then and there that we can run back home weaving through all of the normal citizens participating in a normal day of life to grab her passport, maybe some snacks, and then we'll bail.
I teach my first three classes waiting for some sort of I don't know - bomb, missile any sign of war, really, but it never happens. Finally, before my fourth class I find out that the practice drills were over and nothing happened. Did I overreact? I don't know - debatable. Probably the scenes I was picturing in my head which were mostly inspired from Hollywood, might have been a little dramatic. However, I am glad I did not empty out my bank account.
Currently, I am still stationed here in Seoul city, chilling in my room, planning on going to work tomorrow. Am I living in a dangerous city - according to CNN the most dangerous in the world right now. Does it feel like it? No, not at all. Should I bail anyway? Who knows? I am currently talking it out with my parents. So, really I am teetering on the brink of war, but doing the daily grind. Packing getaway bags, but also booking tickets to Harry Potter. Welcome behind the scenes to the war in Korea: the backwards chapter.![kor.jpg]