The Main Square

It is difficult to be the thousandth to write of it. This square is known to every Soviet child before he learns to read. Even if a person's life is spent in the farthest, most remote corner of our land, he will recognize this cobblestoned piece of earth. When we venture out into the world on our own, this is the first place we want to see, although it would seem that we already know it in every detail.

I remember the first time I came here I touched the wall. The bricks were the same as in the houses back home near Voronezh. The cobblestones underfoot were similar, and the clouds drifting by were the same as the ones at home. Still, some strange force in all this taken together made my heart beat faster.

It is a very small bit of earth, only five hundred paces across. I have passed here many times, either talking to a companion or taken up with my own thoughts, with the square existing of its own accord and I of my own. Now, once again, I walk along the wall as that very first time.

Nothing has changed. As the years pass and because you often see these red stars and these stones, your attitude does not change. If it does; it changes as it does towards your mother: the older she gets, the dearer her grey head becomes.

I have seen many of the world's squares. Red Square in Moscow is inimitable in its beauty and simplicity. I realize that inhabitants of Rome, Peking or Prague can say the same of the squares in their native cities and this filial feeling is only natural. Still, in all objectivity, I repeat: this square is unique.

As for filial devotion, it is nurtured by more than the fairy-tale beauty of the stone cathedral, the proud spires, the simplicity of the Mausoleum, the pattern of the merlons and the red lights of the tower stars. Time itself inhabits this square!

Yet, one cannot notice the passage of time, not even here beneath the round gilded tower clock. The human eye cannot discern the movement of its hands, it cannot note the spruce trees growing taller by the Kremlin Wall, nor does it see the cobblestones wearing down under the soles of those who come here. Still, we sense the weight of time and say: "these ancient stones". It is interesting to note that the word "ancient" is never applied to rocks in the mountains, although Nature created them at the same time it created the stones that were used for the Kremlin towers. A stone's age is determined by what it has seen. Look at the square. Think back to but several memorable dates in Russian history, then look around, and you will feel that the stones have not forgotten anything.

It seems that this square has been here forever. Yet, everything has its beginnings. Archeologists digging on the Kremlin grounds recently uncovered the old brickwork. Farther down they came upon the remains of a wooden tower, then the remains of an ancient cobbler's hut. Still deeper they found only fir and pine cones, for a mighty forest once stood on the site of the paved square and the Kremlin. The square can recall nearly a thousand years of human passions, uprisings, festivities, fires and courage. One thousand years is a long time, considering that even the last fifty have left so many traces here. Stars have replaced the eagles on the towers. The Mausoleum of the great Lenin has become sacred to us all. In 1941 the defenders of Moscow passed through the square, past the Mausoleum (intentionally through the square!), marching straight to the trenches! We remember that cold day and the snow flurries. Faith in our eventual victory was our only consolation. Red Square lived to see that day. The soldiers returned and tossed the enemy's banners onto the cobblestones.

One cannot help recalling all this when passing beneath the golden circle of the clock on Spassky Tower.

All this justifies our calling the stones of the Kremlin towers ancient. The square, keeper of the past, charts the way ahead as well. The name "Lenin" on the Mausoleum, so dear to our hearts, and the lights of the Kremlin stars above the square are symbols of our future.

This is our main square. It is located in the heart of Moscow. This is where the city began, growing outward through the centuries. It will keep on growing. The skyline is changing as new landmarks and new houses appear. However, the Kremlin and its ancient square will forever remain the heart of the capital.

These photographs were taken from a helicopter. Perhaps this was not the best vantage point from which to view the square. Yet, it appears here in a new light and is as beautiful as ever.

Red Square is the most cherished spot in our land. All our roads lead here. This is where our nation begins.